There Have Been Pearl Divers For a Thousand Years In the Emirates
Weaponry
More Weaponry
European Bronze Cannon From 1785
Falconry Is the Most Valued Traditional Sport In the Region
Today As It Was In the Past. Skill Is Needed To Train the
Birds To Hunt and To Respond To Commands
Today is Sunday, the beginning of the week in the UAE. Friday
and Saturday the people are off, Sunday, back to work. Stores are open from 10
AM – 8 PM. We had an exchange rate of $ 1US. = 3.65 Dirhams (DHS or DH).
Architectural Heaven in Dubai
Most of the people in the Emirates are Sunni Moslem, but
they have some Shia Moslem. There is even a Catholic Church in Dubai. You can
believe in anything you want, have any religious affiliation, but preaching it
in public, demonstrating it in public, proclaiming your faith or even talking
about it, are against the law here. Religious freedom is a given, but please
keep it to yourself, don't try to convert anybody to your point of view in a
public place. If you want, need to pray, do it in the privacy of your home or
in the designated areas. I like this idea!
There are 2.5 million people living in Dubai and only 20% of
those are native Arabs. The rest, 80% are from countries around the world but
mostly from Asia, specifically India.
Another Unusual Building
There are only 2 seasons here: summer, when the temperatures
are between 45 and 50 C. (120-130 F) with a humidity of near 100% and then winter,
with slightly cooler weather (90 F) and much lower humidity. We arrived in winter,
phew. Smiles…great! It only rains here 3 or 4 times a year, usually sometime in
January or February. All water used in the UAE comes from the Persian Gulf –
Arabian Sea. All drinking water is desalinated sea water and domestic oil is
their power supply for the desalination plants.
Every Building is Different
There are 7 Emirates in the UAE with Dubai being the 2nd
largest, the biggest is Abu Dhabi. Each Emirate is ruled by a different Emir (Sheik).
The UAE was founded in 1971, right after the British left. Citizenship is
difficult, some say impossible for foreigners to gain. All children assume the
nationality of the father.
The UAE has no old age pension, no social security, and no
health insurance for foreigners. Any foreigner turning 60 years of age must
leave the country. Many foreign workers here have only a limited time visa,
which can be renewed depending on the need for the person and the benefit for
the UAE. It’s a tough law, but logically it makes sense.
Orderly Traffic With the Burj Khalifa In the Background
Traffic lanes are strictly enforced and traffic moves in a
much more orderly way. Lashings are part of the penal code, even for foreigners. The
laws here are observed.
Only native Arabs may buy property, all others can only buy
leases. The maximum lease time is 99 years. When the 99 years are up, the
property must be GIVEN back to the government.
Housing On the Jumeirah Palm Island
Real estate might be the 3rd largest industry
here (after oil production and tourism). Areas that decades ago were pure
desert are today thriving with activity. There are 3, much talked about,
man-made peninsulas, the famous Palm Islands. In addition, a new section named
“The World” is in progress, where an additional 260 assorted sized islands are planned.
Two of The World Islands are now ready to be used... One is purely offices, the
other recreational no living accommodations - yet.
Real estate in the UAE is of the highest, most modern
caliber. World renowned architects show their latest creations here. It is a
wonderland for any city planner. Everything works in tandem, from utilities to
traffic planning, to public transportation. From residential to commercial sections,
every small detail is planned and executed. It seemed to me the world came here
and showed what could be done and all was planned accordingly. The city was designed. It
did not grow, it was grown.
Typical Arab Desert House Before 1966 With
Windcatcher Tower on Roof
Wind Tower From Inside
Our first stop on the city tour was the Dubai Museum inside the Al Fahaidi Fort. I am
glad we saw this. The museum is housed in an old fort left by the British and
contains a replica of a typical Arab house that was used in villages in the
area. It was an eye opener. It was a small house, the walls made out of woven
palm fronds, tied to a skimpy wooden frame. No nails were used. Everything was
tied together using ropes made from plants. The floor was dirt but most areas were
covered with a woven woolen rug. It was a desert house. Whatever the desert
provided was used, nothing else. The unique feature was a chimney-like tower
sitting on the side of the main room, which served as flue to let hot air rise.
Air, coming in low through the walls, infiltrated the room and was then drawn up through
this ‘chimney’(Windcatcher) creating airflow. It was badly needed when the outside temps
were 50 C. This design was on every old Arab house and worked like a fan. Standing below the tower, we could feel the breeze as the air rose.
Walls Allow Shade and Breezes From Outside.
Woven, Woolen Rug on Top of Reed Mats
It is amazing to see this old house today and realize that
this was the ‘normal’ house for many a family not so long ago. How long ago?
Before the oil discovery changed everything?Well, oil was first found in UAE in 1966, just 50 years ago. And Saudi
Arabian oil only in 1938, that was only 79 years ago. To see this, to see what
it was like and what it is now is almost incomprehensible. Wow, did they come a
long way. They came from the Dark Ages to the 21st century, if I
really think about it. There was nothing else I needed to see in this museum
that could drive this point further home in my mind. No old weapons, no old
dress, no old anything. From a shack-like house to the sky scrapers all around
me is enough for me. And all of this happened to the Arabs just because they
were lucky to be sitting on a huge oil lake. Oil, the only raw material besides
sand is all they had. I was floored.
Jumeirah Mosque
I am still floored!
We had a photo stop at the Jumeirah Mosque, the only mosque
in Dubai that welcomes non-moslems inside. Unfortunately it was closed that day
but it made a pretty picture. The mosque is not that old, construction began in
1976. It can hold 1200 people.
Zabeel Palace is the home of the Emir of Dubai, now
surrounded by walls, buildings, parks, etc, the compound was started in late 1950,
then was altered, added onto, etc., etc. In 1950 it was in the middle of a
sandy desert, today it’s in the middle of the city. Carol was on the wrong side
of the bus to get any pictures, but it was just a drive by. They don't want any
tourists traipsing all over their property.
Who Would Wear This Stuff and Where?
Dress Made Entirely of Gold Disks
The Gold Souk, wow! Very elaborate, ostentatious necklaces,
tiaras and rings. bangles and a chain-mail-like dress that would cover the
whole front of a woman, like a dress all in pure 24 k gold.
One Very Large Ring
Some were even studded with diamonds and pearls. It was so
over the top that I wondered if anybody would ever buy such jewelry. But
looking at it logically, these businesses are here to sell items, to make a
living from selling these. So, what do you think? Somebody “is” buying, they
are in business.
One store had the world's biggest ring (not for sale) but it
attracted tourists to the store. All of the gold is imported, mostly from India.
The area of the gold souk is large, one store next to the other, all
overflowing with exquisite, if strange to me, jewelry. It was a sight to see.
I Recognized Only Cinnamon
The Spice Market for 1000’s of years has been selling just that,
spices. The colors, the smell is unique to those narrow alleys, walks and
backyards. It is a world unto itself. Interspersed among the spice shops are
souvenir shops. We had an explanation of various spices and sampled some
chocolate covered dates. Yummy!
I would have had to buy an assortment of pins just to get a
camel pin for my hat. With a lot of nice smiles, a lot of head nodding and
shaking, with pantomime and my good looks, I finally got the man to just sell
me just the one camel pin, I was very proud of myself. I showed the acquired pin to
Carol who cheered with a hearty "Oh, for me? Thank you!" And the pin was gone. It's on her
hat now!
Burj Khalifa
Burj Khalifa tower: the highest building in the world, 820
meters high, 160 floors. The elevators get to the top in record setting time,
60 seconds. The building was named in honour of the president of the United Arab Emirates and ruler of Abu Dhabi, Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan; Abu Dhabi and the UAE government lent Dubai money to pay for its construction.
We had a 12 clock noon appointment and were on time. But, of
course, we had to go through the security check line. There were hundreds of people in line and
one by one we had to pass the pat down, the x ray machines. It took forever,
and then came the ticket endorsement line, a stamp on the back of the tickets
we all held which took an additional 10 minutes.
View From the Top. Desert Can Almost Be Seen Outside of Dubai
So, ok, I stood in line,
waiting. Then the line was held up because of the picture takers, you stand in
front of a blank wall and later they superimpose your face to postcards with the Burj Khalifa in the background. I am still in line, but I walked past this photo business, voicing my frustrations with: "This is ridiculous". Then we had to walk through long corridors until we came to a fork in the line. Express tickets right, regular tickets left. We were directed left.
OK, I lost it. Loudly
I said: “This is idiotic, I'm out of here“. I turned around and left the group
to finish their tour. No way am I spending hours in line to see Dubai from the
top. It does not matter how rare the view, how high the tower. So, I cannot
tell you how it was seeing Dubai from the top. (But I can - see my pictures and see the video of the fountains at the Burj Khalifa below. Turn on your speakers.)
Fountains at the Burj Khalifa
After the Burj we had a quick visit to the beach. Yes people
were suntanning themselves, some women in small bikinis. Nobody seemed to mind,
nobody really paid attention to them.
Nobody Seemed to Care What
Bathing Attire Was Worn
We also stopped for a photo op at a hotel where rooms go up
to US$ 12,000.00 per night.
I truly wish them a good night’s sleep; if they sleep 8
hours that would be $ 25.00 a minute.
Some people don't seem to care about that.
A few of our group then went on their own to a mall just to
see the ski slope and the bob sled track this mall has. Yes, real snow in the
desert. It is held artificially cold at -2 C and people really ski there. I did
not go.
In 2020 the world expo will be in Dubai, there is lots of
hectic building going on to be ready for the expo. It is a bit outside of the downtown
area but in time it will blend together, making Dubai an ever larger city. The
city spreads out and keeps on spreading out.
Our Dhow For a Dinner Cruise
In the evening we ended the day with a Dhow ride and dinner on
the Dubai creek. Yes, Dubai has a “river” of some sorts. Well it had one, now
filled with saltwater, since the fresh water in the old river was used a while
ago already and is now all gone. Still, they call it a creek and it is navigational
for quite a few miles inland. Tunnels run under it for traffic to flow easier,
ferries cross it to move people and it adds a nice touch to this desert city. Cruising
boats are for hire for dinner parties. Fiona organized for all of us to have
dinner together on this night-time excursion. The lights were on, the mood
festive. Some ladies wore their best dress, made a gala out of it, very nice.
Except one thing, we had to wait 40 minutes for the last 2 people to arrive.
The Diesel engine was chugging, idling, waiting. The food was being held warm.
Birthday Cake, Birthday Girl and Two Young Admirers
The
fumes from the exhaust were objectionable after some time. The main waiter was telling
us start eating, while we waited on the pier. He urged us not once but a few
times until a man from our group blew his stack telling the waiter we will eat
once we are on the way, once we are moving, not with the fumes all around us. Finally
the young couple showed up and we left the pier. Fiona felt embarrassed,
especially since today was her birthday and Gary even had made arrangements for
her birthday cake. In the end all had a great time. There was a family with 2
little girls on board, celebrating something. Fiona gave both of the little
girls her birthday cake. Ah, the smiles! Carol then gave the girls some
Canadian pins she always carries and the girls were so proud. There was lots of
picture taking and smiles. The food turned out good as well. What ends
well is well.
Showing Off Their Canadian Flag Pins
It was a busy day, sometimes trying, but all survived.
Entertainment on the Dhow Dinner Cruise (Turn on your speakers.)
We are leaving India today. Our new destination is the United
Arab Emirates (UAE), a place I have not been before. We get the wake up call at
3 AM and take a 2-hour bus ride to Kochi airport on the very dark, very narrow,
bumpy lanes of the village of Kumarakom where we stayed last night. It is a
drive I am glad I am only watching. I would not want to be the driver. He sees
things that I am not able to see. I told you this bus driver is very, very
good.
We arrive at the Kochi airport without incident and today's
flight is an international flight. All runs smoothly, only the clerk signing us
out of India is the typical bureaucratic nightmare. He is fastidiously dotting
every ‘i’, crossing every t. In German we call those bureaucrats
Nullennachzieher. A guy who traces the zero on paper to make sure it really is
a zero. Don't you love this name? It's a person who, when he adds 2 million and
1 million he writes it down. Not only that, he starts on the far right side,
tracing and adding all the zeros before he finally adds the 2 numbers to get to
the number three. Yuck! A bureaucrat (a Nullennachzieher) would do
this ‘work’ even when the answer is obvious.
Minaret Beside Our Hotel
Arriving in Dubai, I cannot help but be amazed. The shuttle train from the gate to baggage runs like
clock work. Each door on the shuttle train has guides and helpers, speaking
all kinds of languages. Wow! Those folks here know how to move the masses. This airport
is only an international airport; the UAE has no domestic flights. This place works efficiently. No delays. Going
through immigration was no issue; going through Customs, again, no issue. Poof
and you are outside. Wow, that was fast.
There is no graffiti anyplace, no
advertisements plastered on walls. The streets are swept clean. After India it's a bit scary. You look back over
your shoulder to see if anybody is watching you. I had a feeling that Big
Brother was watching me?
The Streets Are Spotless, the Traffic is Orderly
We were met outside the airport by Marshall, the tour representative
in Dubai. He called our bus and we were off to the Hyatt Al Riga, centrally
located near downtown Dubai. Everything went smoothly, until they took all of
our passports at the hotel reception. Call me paranoid, the last time this
happened to me was in Russia. OK, after a bit of time we got them back but not
without paying some fee. My inner radar chirped, there is certainly a rule of law
here, certainly someone is ‘watching’ you. OK, OK, call me paranoid, I just got
here but that is how felt. I felt I was being watched with a smile.
Our exit and transport out of the airport was so quick I had
no time to draw Dirham from an ATM. Naturally we had to find a bank; the
exchange rate with an ATM is always much better than what the hotel gives you.
We also had to find food, since it was way past our lunch hour. There was no
map available at the front desk that could help us, also they seemed to not
know where the nearest ATM was, so off we went exploring. On the way out the
door we ran into Roger, a member of our group who had found a Bank with an ATM
close by. But, when we went to Riga Ave, the bank building was not obvious; we could
not see a bank. So we had to ask. Do they speak English here? We asked a man
clad in a thobe (white, long Arab outfit) and in perfect English he told us
where the bank was. “Just across the wide avenue, no problem whatsoever”, he
said. Good start. We got a stack of Dirhams from the machine. Nice to know we
can find people that we can talk with.
A Great Little Restaurant Near Our Hotel
Now to the food! Most signs are written in Arabic of course.
Do the restaurants have English menus? This again was no problem whatsoever.
Not everybody speaks English but in general, with language and writing, there was
never an issue in Dubai. Dubai is totally set up to deal with international
travelers. In fact, the main economy in Dubai, after oil, is tourism.
In memory of India we ate a Shawarma in Dubai, which was
both (5 PM) lunch and dinner. Next door to the late lunch place was a kind of
bakery. This bakery had lots and lots of wonderful sweets. Baklava, one of our favorite desserts, were available
in many varieties, they were yummy.
I'm In Heaven. Really Good Baklava
We had a long day, getting up early, flying, new people,
language, etc. we just slowly
wandered slowly back to the hotel and goofed off for a bit, tomorrow is another day.
We slept well enough last night on our houseboat even when the A/C turned
itself off and the cabin was sticky warm. It reminded me of when I was younger
and slept at night without any A/C at all. My covers came flying off and I
would have even opened the window but, at 5 AM traffic on the river resumed.
Some boats had motors without mufflers. The closed window helped a little to
subdue the sounds.
We had a leisurely breakfast of omelet, fruits, toast and
coffee on board the houseboat before we disembarked. Getting off was a bit perilous.
The gang plank is narrow, the luggage bulky but we managed OK. Not so from the sound
coming from the neighbors boat. A large suitcase fell into the water; I just
hope it was water proof. The Crew managed to rescue it and put it on the shore where it stood
dripping wet for the owner to retrieve. I am so glad this was not my suitcase.
Lobby Of the Aveda Hotel Has a Large Pond With Coi
We had time this morning; it was too hot to move fast
anyway. Our bus stopped one more time for a shopping spree and Carol found a
white cotton top, Indian style. But this was also the point when another woman
in the group realized she left her money-belt on the boat. It took some
coordination but the money-belt was found and returned to her later in the day,
in the hotel. The money belt was found among the bathroom towels, on the boat.
Restaurant Area Overlooks a Beautiful Pool
Our hotel was near the bird sanctuary of Kumarakom. Our
hotel was a very difficult place for our bus to get into. Indian bus drivers are
good, no better than good, VERY good. Our driver was one of the best, yet he
had a very difficult time driving on those narrow lanes. His helper had to get
out many times to move mopeds, motorcycles or even guide him around corners in
the road. Even the hotel parking lot offered problems. It was a very tight fit.
The driver only had a few inches on
either side, sometimes fractions of that. Bravo driver!
The hotel in Kumarakom was an Indian hotel and while very
nice, it lacks the wants of an international traveler. The dining area was in
the open air, wonderful and romantic but also hot, humid and came with mosquitoes.
We had room service for lunch.
We called the front desk 4 times and they tried 4 times to
fix the A/C until finally they fixed it.
Phew, in the tropics without A/C?It shows you now spoiled I have become.
Egret
At 3.30 in the afternoon, after the big heat of the day, we
all took a boat ride on Lake Vembanad. The whole area in and around this large
lake is a designated bird sanctuary. We had a guide who knew his thing, and
Carol and, it seemed everybody else, had a good time. It is just me and birds. Carol
tells me she saw kingfishers, egrets, purple herons, cormorants, etc. but with
me it all falls on deaf ears. At one point everybody went for a walk in this
heat to listen to thedifferent ‘chirps’
or “ tweets” while I sat under the canopy of the boat, just minding my own
business in the shade. I like birds OK, but I leave them be. I know they are great
creatures, they eat bugs, worms, mosquitoes, etc. and that is good enough for
me.
Colourful Kingfishers
Water Buffalo With Hitchhikers On His Back
I have an explanation for it all. When I was younger my
father collected wild birds in a very large cage. He trapped birds in his home-made
traps or nets. It was my job, since my Dad was working; to get those caught
birds out of those traps right after I came home from school. After I freed
them from the traps, I had to put them inside the large cage my dad built. I
hated it. I felt sorry for the little creatures, felt sorry for their confined living.
Some of the birds while in the trap or net were bloody from trying to get free.
It broke my heart. There was no use talking to my Dad. I set most of the birds free,
but of course my Dad would yell at me and would have a fit when he found out,
and he did find out.
Cormorant Drying His Wings
Then one day, by mistake? I left the door ajar of the large
birdhouse. All his precious birds flew off. After that I was called not reliable
and he could not count on me to do him a simple favor. After some time, the big
birdhouse came down because he only found dead or wounded birds in his nets (because
I no longer even went near the traps).Ah, childhood memories, I leave birds as birds, I don't care what their
names are and how they tweet.
Everybody is different, so if you like birds? OK
A Tree Full Of Cormorants
with me,
but please respect that I feel badly for any caged animal, reptile or bird. I
hate zoo visits. I just about can handle sanctuaries, where people gawk
constantly at wild animals.
And I am not a fan of temps of 35C with 90% humidity like we
had that day.
Blossoms On the Suicide Tree
Fruit Of the Suicide Tree
I loved the story of the suicide tree, where the fruit is
edible but the pit is deadly. Mmmm, I wonder what that tree looks like, that
fruit.Carol told me she saw one on her
walk while I was goofing off in the shade.
For that night we saw an advertisement that there would be
classical music played in the lobby. Stupid me, it was Indian classical music,
of course. Not Western classical! I tried to listen to the Indian classical
music, but I have to admit, these sounds were not for me.
Goodbye Amazing India. Tomorrow We Leave For a Few Days in Dubai in the United Arab Emirates
