Kostrzyn, Poland or Lebus in Germany

We had enough Zlotys (Polish dollars) left to stay one more night in Poland. While riding towards the German Border I reflected on Poland’s comparison to the rest of Europe and I am very happy for Poland. What Poland accomplished since 1991, after liberation from the Soviet System, is amazing. Poland did not have a big brother like East Germany had West Germany. Poland had to do it all alone. Yes, with the help of the EU, but the EU only gave a proportional amount of money to Poland. Congratulations, Poland! You did well and you did it mostly yourself and you can be proud of your accomplishments. Sometimes I felt a twinge of loss when I rode through the former German provinces. When I went to school I was taught that these areas ARE German and that we will get them back, someday. Amazing how stuff like that sticks in your head when you are taught nonsense like this. What did I know, I was a kid going to school in Germany and the teacher is right, right? Hopefully people will learn, like I learned, that borders are only an indication of Government, not a line to be fought over. The history of Europe, no matter what country, is full of fights for ownership, beliefs and power struggles. I hope that Poland can keep her land and can keep her borders open so that all can come and appreciate her beauty.
We still saw a lot of Soviet System leftovers. We saw old Soviet made apartment buildings, falling down in disrepair. I noticed pipelines above the ground running alongside the roads and gasoline stations with the tanks above ground next to the pumps, rusty and not maintained. We saw farms that still use machinery from 50 years ago. Cargo is sometimes still hauled by horse drawn wagons and coal is delivered this way. Roads are patched to make them passable and while most are paved and super smooth, there are some that are still cobble stones. Poland is a mix of Soviet and Western Politics. It is walking away from the Soviet System, embracing Western ideals especially in the larger towns while small villages are still struggling with the Soviet heritage.
We decided to stay the last night in Kostrzyn, Poland, east of Berlin and then cross over to Germany the next day. Well, we rode around and tried to find a hotel in Kostrzyn. Wow, this town is exactly what I described above. All the hotels we saw where below par. Yes, there is a newer one right at the border but then we might as well cross into Germany. We tried to find any accommodations but all we saw were Siberia Style shops selling I don’t know what. The people grew up with this look and don’t know better, but for me this was the worst town I experienced in Poland.
So we decided to cross just to the next German town and find a hotel there. Good thinking, Hans, but… there is no hotel in the next town in Germany. It is getting late and we are riding south towards Frankfurt on the Oder when I spot Hotel on the side of the road. I stop and ask if they have rooms and the guy tells me, yes, come and ask the lady inside. Well, we parked the bikes, smiling inside to find this hotel with a restaurant attached only to find out that nothing is available, all taken.
Off we go further south along route B 112 and see a sign for Zimmer with an arrow. We have not used this yet, a room in somebody’s home. It turned out to be perfect. Safe place to park our bikes in their yard, within walking distance to a restaurant in an idyllic spot right on the river Elbe. Quiet at night and with a big bed. No footboards so I can really stretch out. Now who would have thought that the town of Lebus had a place like this? This town, by the way was mentioned in papers dating back to the year 1100. We are talking history. You would not believe this town. Nothing happened here, yet people live a life of contentment, an old man was walking his dog like he does every night, I suppose. Such a contrast to the way I live. They are totally content and we? We just visited.

Teutonic Knights

One of the forces to be reckoned with in the early middle Ages was the Order of the Teutonic Knights. They wore a white tunic with a black Cross. Spartan living, water, bread and old, worn clothing were all the Order promised the Knights.
After the Crusades ended (about 1198) the returning pilgrims did not know where to go or what to do and many had no clue where their home was. Some were good fighters, some were the 2nd or 3rd sons of the gentry and they found solace in the church. They joined religious orders like the Knights Templar for France or the Teutonic Knights for Germany. Being very religious they spread the good news of Christ by force, if needed, throughout the Eastern part of Europe. Notorious for brutality, for collection of taxes to support their castles, they were none the less the ‘good’ guys because they were religious zealots sanctioned by the Church. I can’t imagine what the bad guys did. Malbork (Marienburg) in Pomerania, Germany was their headquarters, at least until 1457 when the Polish took over and converted the Castle into a Royal stronghold for their King. Marienburg was held by Poland until 1772 when the German Prussians reclaimed it. In between, the Castle was besieged by Swedes, Russians, etc.
We had a tour of history. All the historical, religious changes before, during and after the Reformation in Germany can be found right here. Mostly destroyed during WW2, it has been rebuilt by Poland and is today a tourist attraction. It has the feel of a cloister with battle stations all around. Heavy fortifications, tricky traps, its immense size and history made it a worthwhile visit. Prices are high to help rebuild this former strong hold of the Teutonic Knights.
We are done with Poland, the conquest of countries and the spread of belief systems. From now on we are following the Muse. Let’s visit the Birthplace of J.S. Bach, see where he lived, where he wrote, what he wrote, etc. I think this is more fun. Besides… our bikes need some service now. We learned today that Heinz Bals in Cammer, near Minden, Germany is the best BMW mechanic. We will visit him too.

Gdansk (formerly Danzig)

After a depressing day at the Wolfschanze we wanted something touristy. So we took the old, tree-lined roads towards Gdansk. Danzig is an old Hansa town, and the former German Capital of Pommern, a former German State. Gdansk was in the forefront of the Solidarity movement in the early 1990’s and the beginning of the end of the Soviet System. Gdansk was also where WW2 began, when Germany invaded Poland to reclaim what was taken away after WW1. As you can tell a lot of history happened here. We arrived late in the afternoon and we found a dorm room at a hostel but passed up on it after we learned we had to sleep with 5 strangers. Another hostel was on a boat, docked in the harbor but there was no place for our bikes to be securely parked. So, what to do? We had to bite the bullet and spend a lot of money on a 4 star hotel. Great place, great breakfast, good parking, fantastic location near the old town but we pay for it all. Gdansk is the Amber Capital of Poland. Yes, you can buy all the amber you want in every price you can afford. The prettiest street has nothing but amber for sale. There is one shop next to the other. What is the best kind, who sells the best, the cheapest? It is a hard task for novices like us. We did manage to secure our allotment of this commodity, and I am sure we bought some great gifts for our loved ones. The city itself is amazingly restored in the original architecture after being destroyed by British and Russian bombs during WW2. It has a wonderful character and a good mix of old and new. We live in the old town right now and are typical tourists. We are having coffee, beer and delicious Polish food. Gdansk is a worthwhile place to visit, the history is amazing.

Wolfsschanze

We left Lithuania in a heavy downpour after spending a night in a fancy, 3 star hotel, in a small town we found on the road. We were so wet, so worn out from rain that the price of 190 LTL seemed ok. Yes they have internet, we are told, but then it did not work well. It is Saturday night and a techno disco guy plays his music right under our room until 1 am. Sleeping without earplugs is a bit difficult but I fell asleep on a narrow bed after some time none the less. The next day, rain! Do we wait it out by booking one more day at this hotel or do we just grin and ride on?
We rode on, into Poland. After the morning passed, we found the sky getting lighter and smiling at us. The rain finally stopped. We got to the town of Gizycko (Loetzen in German) and stopped for the night. Tired and still a bit wet from the morning’s downpour, we were happy to be in a western kind of country. Technically Poland is Slavic, an Eastern County but the area we are in was formerly the German East Prussia, a very German looking area. All the towns, all the roads, to my brain, make sense and I see Germanic setups and housing all over the place. I feel at home here. I guess it is no wonder I like the Mazuren area of Poland.
Gizycko is near the town of Ketrzyn (Rastenburg) and near the Wolfsschanze, the War Headquarters for Hitler during WW2. It is an assortment of bunkers, deep in the woods, carefully chosen to be hidden from air surveillance and not generally known to anyone. The Nazis even grew moss on each bunker to make it less visible. Officially the barracks (heavy bunkers, really) were a chemical producing facility. Guarded to the teeth and only 130 people had access to Zone 1 (the inner area) although 2000 people worked in the 8 km. area known as Wolfschanze during the war. Von Stauffenberg made his attack on Hitler’s life here and the guide we hired explained the details of Von Stauffenberg’s execution along with 5,000 others after his failed attempt. The fortifications were formidable. Dangerous swamps to the North, heavily mined, barbed wired fences and layers and layers of security. Hitler had his SS troops and Special Forces nearby just to protect this place. The German’s themselves blew the complex up in early 1945 in an operation they had planned and called ‘Inselsprung” (leaving the Island).
Within 20 seconds they blew the whole complex up, every building was blown to bits 3 days before the Russian Army arrived to take it over. All that can be seen today is the rubble of these bunkers yet the place gives you the creeps, none the less. It is still hard to imagine that every move of the WW2 battles was called from here. That decisions of momentous outcome came from this place is still shocking. Every war department had their own bunker. Monstrous setups of building, covered in moss, deep in the woods, with air conditioning, heating systems, air supply, technical support, etc. The whole complex was built in 4 years. A tremendous output of labor, planned well enough that even today, would it not be destroyed by the builders, would be impressive enough to be off limits to little people like me. The Wolfsschanze (Wolf’s Lair) is a “to be missed” place. We were here; saw it and that is it. Not a tourist place I would recommend, yet it is part of today’s Poland, a formerly German area, and history.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wolfsschanze.
Carol disagrees with me and feels people, especially young people need to be reminded of the events of WW2 and that even some of Hitler’s own generals disagreed with him enough to try to kill him. She also finds it curious that the Americans knew of the location of the Wolf’s Lair in 1943 yet only one attempt was made to bomb the area.

Amber Coast

The story goes that Jurate, the Queen of the Baltics built a whole castle made out of amber. The gods were so displeased by her display of wealth that they flooded her whole county with what is now the Baltic Sea. Even today, below the waves, her castle crumbles and amber washes ashore. We learned that real amber is about 50 Million Years old and floats in salt water. In addition, it will burn easily if it is held to flame. We read that amber washes ashore regularly and all you have to do is pick it up. Yes, Carol and I walked the shore and looked, taking our time but we did not find even a little piece.
Then we learned that the spit of land, the Curonian Spit in Lithuania, would be a good place to look. Off we go and entered Lithuania’s National Park only to run into heavy rain. No way can we walk the beaches. It poured and with the wind, the rain came sideways. The Curonian Spit borders Kaliningrad (Konigsberg), and there is no entrance into Russia without a proper Visa. Back we went to the main land of Lithuania in pouring rain. We did not get any amber the easy way. I felt like this is like fishing, it is way easier to buy the fish at the market than to catch it as an amateur.
With all my gear on, I was wet to the bones. Carol, in her new suit, fared better, she was perfectly dry. I think I am due a new riding suit. In addition, my front tire has almost no tread and I need a new tire badly but we need to get to Germany or at least Poland, for that. With all the rain I feared that I would hydroplane, especially since the tire tracks on the roads are deeply worn into the asphalt. There are literally two rivers running side by side on the road. I was forced to ride the middle strip but here I had the fear of finding slick spots. Unlikely in this heavy rain but with oil oozing trucks on the roads, one never knows.
This is not the 3rd world, but close to it in some spots. Things do not always work and there is a different reality here. We found wonderful hotels only to be told they could not provide proper security for our bikes. The hotel helped us find better locations for our bikes. Security for bikes is a must. The ‘new’ hotels they found for us were ok for the bikes but were a bit on the dumpy side. So we really looked around to find a proper hotel for us and the bikes. Showers have no doors, they are out of toilet paper, the steps on the stairs are uneven, tiles in the bathroom are loose, etc. We manage with those small things, yet in my German mind, I do not understand why these things happen.
The amber coast is there and yes, there is amber to be found, one just has to look and walk the beaches. We used the excuse of the rain to bail out and will buy some amber in a store. Amber is such a specialty in itself; too, I never knew the many colors amber has and that it is at least 40 million years old. Green amber is also found along the Baltic Sea although it is quite rare. We rode away from Lithuania in heavy rain, without amber, without seeing a store to buy amber. We did visit the shores where the amber is found but we were not lucky. We are off now towards Poland.

Riga, Latvia

After leaving Tallinn we took the back roads as much as possible to get to Riga. We took a numbered minor road and immediately the traffic slowed down to almost none. The road was fine; the only thing missing was traffic. Yes, the highway, the ‘E’ road, is full of trucks, full of cars and busy. Once off the ‘E’ roads, the area becomes very rural. Then we decided to go even more ‘rural’ and that was not a good idea. We had gravel and sand for hours. Our bikes are loaded and quite heavy, my front tire needs replacing and those gravel roads made us nervous. Sure we rode them; saw the real Estonia and Latvia but the risk was too great. One bad moment and the trip would have ended. We went back to the, still minor, but paved roads. Since there was no traffic the riding was easy; a tractor here and there, a car once in a while, it was rural. Woods and forgotten fields abound.
There is no difference in appearance between Estonia and Latvia, they could be one country. I don’t know why they are separated. In history, both countries together were called Lavonia, but the land was owned by so many powers from Germany, Russia, Sweden, Denmark and Poland that it is hard to follow the history at all. Today they are separate countries. The effect of the Soviet neglect is still to be found everywhere. The housing is substandard, foundations are crumbling, roofs are sagging, paint is needed and any repairs are made with such a hodge-podge of materials, it looks shabby. The roads are ok, but they do remind me of Russian Roads, patched rather than repaved, sometimes having deep truck tire grooves. Farms, once thriving as judged by the buildings and the size of fields that could be productive, are now neglected. To the point that you would think nobody lives there but yes, people live on those buildings, proud but poor. I don’t know how they can be helped. Tourism in the capitals like Tallinn and Riga only goes so far. The rest of the country is poor.
Riga is huge. We rode into the heart of it since we were given a hostel address in the old quarter. Cobble stone streets, one way traffic and all streets are choked with cars and trucks. Yes, we rode against one way streets, took the bus lanes, lane split, etc. it was very hectic and my engine temperature was near the red line from all the stop and go. Poor Carol, she followed like a good trooper. We found the hostel but parking was a problem. It is not a good idea to just leave the bikes unattended on the street here. We spoke to the police and they did not have a solution for us but a taxi driver knew of a small parking lot that would keep our bikes and yes, we parked there. Will they be there tomorrow? We checked today, after the first night, and yes, so far all is ok. People are nice yet I feel insecure. The attitude is not what I am used to dealing with, when I call someone for help on the side of the road I am not used to getting a “NO, I don’t want to help you” answer. When I ask for the opening times at the cash register of a performance the lady just looks at me and does not answer. I find some behaviors strange. Riga is 45% Russian speaking. I hear it in all the shops and in the street. Maybe they don’t understand my questions in English or in German. We are off to the Amber Shore of Latvia tomorrow.

Tallinn, Estonia

I never realized how perfect the harbor for Helsinki is, just a small opening in rocks. Behind that opening a huge expanse of deep water for large ships. This port is a perfect set up, a great harbor.The ferry to Tallinn was comfy and created no problems and we arrived in the middle of the day. Just a few minutes away we found the Hostel ‘Old House’ and we were lucky, they had a room free. Now, this is not a hotel, it is a hostel. We listened to Ken O’Malley and tried a Hostel in Denmark, it was less expensive than a Hotel but it lacked conveniences. Yet, it is better than a camp ground. In Tallinn we received a small room with just 2 beds and a coat tree to hang a jacket. We had one chair and 2 small night tables. The look of the room is ‘Soviet’, utilitarian and sparse.
The town of Tallinn is in many ways a ‘Soviet’ decorated town. Yes, things work but I see reminders of Russia all over the place. The old town of Tallinn has a huge history and we did the tourist thing. We walked up and down the one hill in town, ate at a “Hansa” http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanseatic_League base restaurant and tried the ‘old’ food or the typical Estonian cuisine. Delicious! Cobble-stone streets are not the greatest to walk on and to ride the roads on a bike, heavily loaded is not much fun, either. Our window at the hostel opened up to one of those cobble stone streets and it was noisy, even at night.
Cruise ships stop at the harbor of Tallinn and you can tell when a ship arrives, the population increases tremendously and everybody is busy, all restaurants are full, the many amber shops are like a beehive and then…. Once all the tourists leave the whole town quiets down and it is back to waiting. The whole thing reminds me of fishing. A lot of excitement when the fish bite, otherwise it is a long waiting game.
Tallinn is a good place to visit, especially when you are a young backpacker. We took an extra day to rest our bones and now we are off towards Riga.

Helsinki in Jail.

We bought the tickets for tomorrow’s ferry with the Viking Line. That leaves us stranded for the night in Helsinki. We checked hotel rooms near the Viking Line and the rate is 132 Euros per night. We found a Youth Hostel for 60 Euros with a bathroom down the hall to be used by all. And then we found… a converted jail. Yes, we are sleeping in jail tonight. It was built in 1937 and closed as a jail in 2002. Best Western bought the property and converted it into a 4 Star Hotel while keeping much of the original architecture, the original red brick façade and enclosing wall. Two to three cells were used to make one guest room and the door to each room is the original size – SMALL. Yes, I know it is not cheap but when will we ever sleep in jail? The price is a staggering 121 Euros, which included breakfast, internet and secure parking for our bikes. After all of this I land us in jail. It is elegant, too. Tomorrow we are off to Tallinn, Estonia.

Lapland

The northern part of Finland is very sparsely populated if you do not count the reindeer; vast areas of scraggly wooded, sandy soil does not lend itself to anything but herding reindeer. The birch tree, which normally loves poor soil, has a hard time growing here. We took the highway going south because there is really nothing to see but small fishing camps and lakes galore. If you love to fish, this might be the place for you. This is not exiting motorcycle country. Well, almost not exiting. The roads are straight and go on for miles and the highway we were on consisted of ‘whoop di doo’ hills. Given the right speed you can skip along the road. There is a speed limit of 100 KM per hour but I have not seen one policeman. So, if you are into speed on a straight away, this might be your place. Watch out for reindeer, though.

Western Finland.

We wanted to find Amber on the Baltic Sea. Mistakenly, we thought the beaches are like most beaches we know with sandy patches and a walk along the beach would yield some amber. I know that amber can be found lying about. I heard the stories over and over that people really found amber on the 3 Baltic Beaches. As we learned, we have to go to the Baltic States in order to do that. Finland is not the place, but we tried. We took a hytte on the beach one night for 40 Euro and ate some smoked fish we bought at the store. Yesterday, we bought some pork chops and again found a hytte with a stove. This time the cost was only 30 Euros because it was off the beaten track. It was the last weekend in August and it is tradition to celebrate the Saturday with fireworks. So all along the shoreline fire crackers went off and the night sky sparkled with colors. Life is good.

Nordkapp --- 710 10’ 21” --- The North Cape

It rained all day. Not only that, fog set in as thick as pea soup. Reindeer made driving hazardous; the wind keeps our bikes leaned sideways. We have as many layers on as we had packed. It seemed so easy to get to the Nordkapp the last time I was there, which was in the middle of July. Now, at the end of August, everything changes. The weather is a big factor this far North. There are no trees to break the wind and only lichen covers the rounded, rocky hills. It is a barren, empty, forbidding landscape. There are definitely more reindeer around; these beasts love this kind of weather. The fog and the rain together make the whole situation a little scary and dangerous, too. The visor fogs up so easy. Yes, we apply anti fog stuff but we need to wipe the rain off and so wipe off the anti fog stuff, too. It is so cold that riding with the visor open is not a good idea.
We did the best we could and now that it is over, all is well. Yet, for a while it was a little tough going. The wind was the biggest obstacle. At too slow a speed the wind pushes you over too far. There is not much to see this far North. The Sami, the original people who lived here, considered the Nordkapp a holy place. Maybe their god was not happy with all the tourists that come by car, RV or bus. We, the motorcycle folks, earn our badge and we fight the elements when visiting this late in the season. Most of the tourist shops along the way are already shut down. The road crew was putting on markers so that the road is visible in snowdrifts. There were no more birds to be seen, they were smart enough to have gone south already. Only we, the bikers have to try it in almost winter.
Well…. We made it but I would visit next time in June or July, it is better that way.

Viking Longhouse.

We heard about this replica of a Viking Longhouse from Hilde Stoltz. Hilde is working on a Masters Degree in Norwegian Studies and the Vikings are her forte. We just had to see how the Vikings lived 1000 or more years ago. The replica of a Chieftain’s Longhouse, built on the same spot where a longhouse originally stood, is impressive. The details of daily life are clearly shown and the guided tour can be listened to in English. The men’s meeting section reminded me of a drinking hall. The kitchen shows how limited their food sources were then. The weaving was primitive, yet the clothing made from the fabric woven was well done. Iron hand tools were used in woodworking; a primitive but effective lathe was made and used similar to a spinning wheel. Animals were kept in pens outside and the hog I saw was huge and well fed, I don’t think the original Vikings would have waited that long to eat this beast. Sheep were kept and of course a cow for milk, etc. Yes, it was an agrarian society but it was not only that. Hunting was part of their life as was gathering, since they collected mushrooms and berries. It sure was not an easy way to survive the harsh winters.
There is hardly a flat piece of ground in Norway. Any flat area is treasured and used as farmland. Most of the campgrounds, even, do not have enough flat space for a good tent spot. So farming, the traditional way, with plow and oxen was not possible years ago. Besides, the growing season was short and what little land there is is full of rocks. Is it any wonder the Vikings looked for loot someplace else? Or better farm land in Iceland? Or even Sweden? I believe the Vikings were just trying to survive any way they could.
The Lofoten Longhouse gives you a good glimpse into how it used to be.

Lofoten Islands

The Lofoten Islands form a rather large Peninsula, showing us a typical Norwegian lifestyle. It is very picturesque, covered with small harbors and old buildings stemming from cod fishing times. Cod fish were dried, salted and shipped throughout Europe, even the World. Fishermen came from all over the Globe to catch these fish. They lived in small huts, cooked their own meals and slept in bunk beds. It was an inexpensive way to get though the winter season, it was small but warm and dry. These small huts, called Hytter, (pronounced hoota) are still in use today. Ok, a bit updated, but still the same style and the same size but now these huts are rented out to tourists. Prices throughout Norway are dear. A Radisson Hotel room in Bergen was 2200 Norwegen Kronen (divide by 5 for US dollars). A hytte with shower and bathroom compares at 600 Kronen. The most common Hytte is about 400 Kronen but does not have a shower, etc. We were cozy warm in a hytte but also froze our butts off sleeping in a campground right near the ocean. (The Lofoten Islands are inside the Polar Circle.) Yes, all hytter have a hotplate so cooking can be done without visiting a restaurant. In Norway it is not so easy to find a restaurant. People mostly cook their own meals. On all our travels we have not seen a fast food place in Norway. No KFC, McDonald’s, Taco Bell, etc. No glaring advertisements, either. The whole country looks pristine and clean of Madison Avenue jargons. This is especially true on the Lofoten Islands. Many people visit the Lofoten coming south by bus from Narvik, but we rode these roads the opposite way.
We saw many glaciers and snow filled recesses in the spectacular craggy mountains and even stopped at the huge, multi-armed Svartisen glacier which is advancing 131 feet per year (no global warming here). There were spectacular waterfalls dropping hundreds of feet in multiple stages before forming turbulent, turquoise rivers rushing to the sea. The many fjords were deep and crystal clear and our road wound along the edge of many of these fjords with the steep mountain sides rising sharply on the other side of the road.
One of the main reasons we took this off the beaten track route was to visit a replica of a Viking Longhouse. See our next report.

Polar Circle

Polar Circle
I understand that anything above Latitude 66 Degrees, 32 Minutes, 727 Seconds North, is the Polar Circle.
We crossed this line going North on the ferry. Not that we couldn’t have ridden across it but taking the road less travelled, the back roads, we had to take the ferry. We were eager to see the monument Norway built to show the exact spot of the Polar Circle. Nothing magical happened, and yet, the temperature does change from now on. It gets remarkably colder. Also, and this will now be a permanent reminder, there are signs for reindeer. Yes, they are waiting for us on the side of the roads, sometimes even right in the middle of the road. Sometimes there are small herds of reindeer, too. Besides the reindeer, watch out for sheep sleeping in the middle of the asphalt. The same holds true for goats but we only saw one large herd of goats. The problem with these animals is that they believe they own the roads. Right after a sharp turn or bend in the road, there they are. Unpredictable, always there when you least expect them. Riding these roads takes constant vigilance.

After we crossed the Polar Circle we noticed that the vegetation changes. Oh, yes, there are still plenty of trees but now they are mostly Fir and Birches. Trees such as Maple and Oak are not to be seen. Also their size becomes smaller the further North we go. No, we did not see any Northern Lights. I believe these lights only show up in winter. We are now adding layers to our clothing to cope with the temperatures.
Our next target is the Lofoten Islands.

Norway's backroads

We covered as many back roads as we could, always travelling on the Western side of Norway. Some call this the "Atlantic Road" and yes, it involves loads of ferry crossings. In general, we lucked out with the connections of the ferries, only once did we wait about 3 hours for the next ship to arrive. The roads are very twisty and first gear is used without much of a warning. Some roads are only 1 1/2 cars wide and oncoming traffic has to wait for you, or you have to wait for them. This goe on for miles. Buses take over a larger portion and it was 'exiting' to pass them when they headed for you. Tunnels connect valleys and oh, are these tunnels long and dark. 8 Km for one tunnel with a 100 yard break and then again 7 KM for the next tunnel. All tunnel walls are just rough stone, no tiles added. They are the way they were dug into the mountain. I get the feeling I am visiting trolls or some creature from the Nordic Sagas inside these mountains. The lighting is dim, too. Please do not have claustrophobia when you come here.
We were lucky with the weather. Yes, it was cold, but we had the right clothing on, just add a layer and all is well. On recommendation we took Route 17 instead of the E6 Highway and we saw Norway like it is in story books. Mountains so steep that it makes me wonder how they engineered the roadways through, over and around them. An amazing feat of road building, but a delight for motorcycle enthusiasts like us. The riding in Norway is fantastic.

Bergen, Norway

We made it this far with a few issues on the way. After we arrived in Kristiansand, Norway I stopped to ask for direction to the Campground. While talking to the Customs guard another bike rear ended me on the side of my GS and it was not a mild hit. The rider fell and almost went into the harbour since it occured right at the edge of the pier. He was not hurt however and got up fast. My bike was hit so hard that it bent the sidestand substantially. The right side panier also is bent to such a degree that the lid does not close well. I did not fall but my bike took a good hit. I can not stand the bike on the side stand without using a support, like a rock or a 2x4. To make matters worse, while I was struggling to get my bike situated after the hit without using the sidestand, the rider who hit me got on his bike and took off. I got part of his licence plate but not exactly. It was a German plate with H GZ 92, or K GZ 92, it all happend too fast. Now I travel with a piece of 2x4 I found on the road to support the bike precariously, every time I stop.

Also, after we left Kristiansand and were in Flekkefjord, Carol realized that her pouch with her medical info was missing. We rode back to Kristiansand and we were lucky, the pouch fell off at the Campground and the proprietor had turned it into the police headquarters. Naturally, a lot of anxiety happened while we searched for the missing pouch. But, like it is said, all is well that ends well.

We are now in Bergen and had some really incredibale riding. Roads that warrant 1st gear and those curves that come at you without warning made us focus intensely. The drop offs to the side will not allow you to make mistakes. One slip and you are history.
We noticed some hesitation on the 650 of Carol's bike and after adjusting the chain at a bike shop we are told that we do need to get a new chain before we go to the Nordcapp. We found a new BMW dealership in Bergen but, it being Friday night, the best he could do was to get the chain and sprocket shipped to him and then install it on Tuesday. So we are stuck in Bergen until Tues at the best. We checked for Hostels and called both on the list but both are booked solid. Alan Jackson, an American County singer, is in town and obviously very popular, even the expensive hotels ( 400 US Dollars\Night ) are fully booked. What to do ?

Carol had the insight to bring the MOA Annonymous book with her and we found Hilde Stolz listed. Well, we are not only dry in the rain, (we hit rainy season - January to December we were told) and sleep like babes in Hilde and Sigi's house but are being fed like Kings. I can not tell you how thankful we are to have found them. They made our stay in Bergen a wonderful experience dispite the inconviniences so far experienced. We are all well, healthy and will continue our journey on Tues, after the new chain is installed.

Viborg, Denmark

We left Germany for now after taking as many little roads as we could. I amazed myself that I could find roads that are hardly on the map. We found rural, local flavour all along the way. Yes, we had a typical German experience with food and music and beer, too. In Gemmuenden we ran into a Birthday party of "Caroline" which was celebrated with an 18 man orchestra playing German tunes full of Brass and Clarinets. We slept right above the music in a road Guesthaus with a breakfast the next day fit for a King.
On a more sober note, we stopped at Bergen-Belsen to pay our condolenses to the people that died there, and the miss treatment they received during Germany's dark hour.
A stop in Lueneburg, Hotel Bremen, showed us what present Germany is and what the history of the Hansa System accomplished. Even today the town lives of the riches then amassed. Poets praised the Lueneburger Heath and I sure liked it, too. We even picked Blueberries along the way, feeling the way Nature heals all given a little time. The area is wonderful.
On a Monday moring, dispite Rush Hour conditions around Hamburg we made it into Denmark without any problems. A very clean county, quiet and very organized. For the first time we used a Hostel. A comfortable and cheerful atmosphere, away from the main town gave us a quiet nights rest.
We are off to catch the ferry to Norway in Hirtshals.

Arriving in Frankfurt

The flight in Toronto was delayed by 7 hours but we managed to notify our pick up party in Heidelberg on time. The pick up was confirmed. Yet... nobody was there to pick us up. After a phone call, just to make sure that the driver was not on the way we had to make arrangments for transfer to Heidelberg. Talking to people helps, we found a very easy way. Take the Lufthansa shuttle from Terminal 1 at Gate 5 to Heidleberg for 20 Euro per person. Then, once in Heidelberg take a taxi, which is right there, to Stefan's house for 12.50 Euro. Total about 55 and it runs daily.

We are packing and repacking right now to get all our stuff on the bikes. Having a new bike makes it hard, the system has to be changed. We are staying one extra day at Stefan's to sort all this stuff out.

Tommorrow we are off going North.

Leg from Frankfurt to Norway

This will be our first leg. After arrving in Frankfurt/Germany we are off to the farthest point one can take by road in Europe: Nordcup/ Norway. Keep watching this log for pictures and more details as we go along. I will be riding a 2002 BMW GS Adv. and Carol will be on a 2004 650 GS.

Alphabet Soup!

I ride a motorcycle, a thing with 2 wheels; a mechanized horse.
Yes, it has a motor and 2 wheels and I like what I ride.
The machine is called a BMW R-1150-GS Adventure. When people ask me what I ride I tell them I ride a BMW. When I believe they know something about bikes I will tell them I ride an Adventure. For experts I will have to add the year 02 so that they get a better picture in their minds of what I ride.
Now let me see: 1) BMW
2) Adventure
3) 02
So to make it easy for most riders and non riders to understand what I ride the bike should be called a “BMW 02 Adventure” That it is made by BMW is for the moment beside the point. Do I really need the R ? R stands for ? Road ? Well, hello, what else would it be made for ? Roadster ? What is a roadster? Wikkipedia lists a roadster as a car. R like in Racing ? Can not be, the GS ( Gelände Straße ) is not a racing bike. So what is the R for ?
Do I really need the 1150 ?
I know that 1150 is close to the cc’s but not really, so why call it 1150?

I just read an article in Backroads magazine ( February 07 ) written by Mike Stackhouse in which he mentions a few bikes he had. A great magazine, by the way.
Ducati 860 GT * BMW R 100/7 * BSA 441 Victor * Ossa Desert Phantom * XS650 Special * SR 500 Yamaha.
He talks about other bikes he is looking at:
02 Triumph Bonneville * ST4 Ducati * K75 BMW * ZX6 Kawasaki * FJR 1200 Yamaha * ZX 12.
Other bikes he mentions in the article are:
BMW F650 * KLR 250 * 67 250 Ducati * 72 450 Ducati * VFR Honda * Kawasaki 650 * KLR 650 * 350Mark 3D * Harley Panhead * Z 750 Kawasaki * Sportster 883 * and finally the word GIVI.
Now if you know all these bikes, wow ! My hat off to you!
But most of us have no clue as to what all these bikes look like. It’s total Alphabet soup!
What is ST ? ZX? VFR? 3D? F? SR? X?
Is X extra ? does it mean X-tra expensive, extra loud, extra what ?
VFR is what ? Very Fast Racing?

I believe it’s nice to know the numbers. 250 cc is small, 1200 is large.
I believe it’s nice to know who makes the bike. Honda is good. Kawasaki is good. Harley is good. ( Do they still need ‘Davidson’? BMW is good, etc.
The year ? Sure a 90’s bike is now considered old.
But yes, add that to the name.
Since all manufacturers come out with new models each year they could give it the number of the year. 07/650
But then BMW now makes a few 650’s for 07, all with X’s
G-650Xcountry
G-650Xchallenge
G-650Xmoto
What is this ? Am I supposed to remember the difference between country, challenge and moto ?
Talking about BMW’s new bikes:
We now have a bunch of 650’s, 800’s and 1200’s.

F800S
R1200S
K1200S
K1200R
F800ST
R1200RT
R1200ST
K1200GT
K1200LT
G650Xcountry
G650Xmoto
R1200R
K1200R
F650GS
F650GS Dakar
G650Xchallenge
R1200GS
R1200GS Adventure
HP-2 Enduro

So basically 3 motors, all tuned differently for Sport, Country, Enduro, Adventure or Challenges.
Well folks, I am challenged here to understand all these models.
And that is only for 2007, forget the models from the past, forget the models of other manufacturers. Never mind what the future will bring.
My mind is on over load with S, K, RT, ST, GT, G, R1, F, HP, LT, X
It’s all Alphabet soup to me !

Besides all of the above I have to remember ATM, PIN, GPS, WiFi, BP and my SS#. Never mind that I now have to remember all kinds of email addresses, too.

Do we have to make naming a bike that complicated? Or is it, that if I confuse the people with enough gibberish they will think I am smart?
Why so many different bikes from one Manufacturer? How many bikes does Honda make this year? How many are really needed? Is it like buying food? For each taste Honda will make a different bike? Today I will eat Japanese, tomorrow maybe German and in the future Chinese?
Its overload…….I am going over the edge with all these choices.