The morning is a free morning; our desert safari starts at
3.00 PM. So we took a taxi to the Gold Souk as we had not seen the details of
this large Souk. Carol, to enhance her Indian Ruby ring, thought a ruby pendent
would be nice to complement it. We stopped in 3 stores and Carol found a very
dark, clean stone of about 2 carat. Now the negotiations were left up to me. I
did my best and we settled on 25 % off list price. It takes time to buy and talk
but all left happy, so I think the dealer still made out well. Carol sure is
happy with her pendent.
I wanted to buy a shirt in Dubai and we walked to the appropriate
Souk but found nothing. One has to know the area well and get to know all the
people to deal here.
Sahid's Drivers Seat
Knowing that, I went back to the guy in the souvenir shop who
sold me the camel pin yesterday. He smiled and recognized me immediately. When
I pantomimed I wanted one more pin he knew exactly what I wanted. No more
haggling or saying anything. He gave me only the camel pin out of the total set,
I paid him and all was done. It was very easy, very fast. We both smiled. Good
business.
Getting To the Desert
Back to the hotel, lunch, and off we go via SUV into the
desert. While it is a little cooler after 3.30 PM, it is still plenty hot. Lucky
the car has A/C. We are 6 passengers in the Toyota Land Cruiser, which the
driver, Sahid, is convinced is the best car for desert driving. With its manual
shift, it outperforms any other vehicle by any other manufacturer in many ways.
His car had over ½ million miles on it and was in perfect condition. It was clean
and well maintained. He drives it every day, and every day he uses the 4 wheel
drive features in the loose sand of the desert.
They Seem Like Friendly Camels
The way out of town going west sees gradually fewer and
fewer houses and then, nothing but desert; as far as one could see only sandy desert.
Our first stop, after we drove for about an hour was a camel pen. We just got
out of the SUV to stretch and to say hello to the animals, some were feeding on
hay and some had young ones, who still nursed. The beasts were used to people
and let you pet them, which does not happen often with camels.
Nursing
Loose Lips
While we were taking pictures, Sahid let some air out of his
tires. He went from 35 lbs down to 14 lbs to give him better traction in the sand.
The Camels Mostly Ignored Us
Steep, Rutted Dunes
And oh boy, did he drive like a wild man in the soft sand. All in the car
were laughing and bouncing around on the inside while Sahid laughed at us. He
drives here everyday and knows the area, knows the curves, the dunes, and his
car. Not only him but everybody in the now forming caravan drove like this. A
bit of a show for us tourists, but safe enough, I am sure. For us novices to
this land, it was an unnecessary risk, but what do I know.
After being bounced around, traversing some steep dunes and sometimes close to a tip over (that's
what it felt like), we joined all the cars in this caravan (20) near a large
dune and took a break. All tourists got out of each car and we all walked up
this dune. Three steps forward, sliding back 2 steps. It is hell to walk or climb
in loose sand. We were huffing and puffing but
Steep Dunes, Hard To Walk Up Them
ultimately, finally made it to
the top. Carol had a smile on her face but admitted that this would not be her
favorite way to take a walk. The view was lovely, the sun was getting low, the
temps were getting lower but it was just a taste of a real desert experience.
To be on a journey through the desert must be a very difficult way to travel.
Or am I getting old?
We all drifted back to the SUVs and did more sliding around
the sand dunes with the cars. It was, (felt to me), like the drivers were
trying to outdo each other, showing us who can be the wildest; with yippee's and yahoo’s
we arrived in another area were we were given water and then all the cars re-inflated
their tires. This took a bit of time, but we were not walking anywhere. The sun
now is almost gone but there were too many clouds for good sunset pictures. Yet,
I LOVED those clouds; they sure cooled things down a bit.
Beautiful Sky
When all the tires were re-inflated, we drove from there
into a desert camp. This was a very, very large area that contains Old Fort-like
buildings where we would spend the evening. 20 or so such forts (camps) spread
out in this huge area. Our caravan of about 20 SUVs, all white Toyota Land
Cruisers, arrived at our designated camp. We were a crowd of about 120
people. We saw some other structures far away but never heard the other camps. Outside
of our camp were camels but Carol and I disregarded them and walked into the
Fort through a large door, into a large plaza-like
Our Oasis, Al Jabal Village
setting. All around the 4
walls of the inside camp were stall-like lean-tos made out of wood or other
low end building material. It was a shelter from the desert, not a hotel, not a
tent, not fancy. But it was effective. The winds that had started to blow, blowing
around stinging sand, clouding the vision and eventually stinging the skin
painfully, were gone inside this camp, it was a refuge. Some lean-tos were souvenir
shops, some were kitchens, sitting areas, eating areas, etc. In the center of
the plaza a large stage was erected and we knew we would get some performances.
Low tables with about 8 seats each surrounded this stage.
After getting seated we could take a free camel ride outside
the Fort but Carol and I opted out of that. We have ridden camels a few times;
we knew it would only be a photo op and a few rounds in the parking lot. Carol
explored the shops and I enjoyed my soda pop. Ah, this is a tourist version of
an experience in an Arab camp, after a long day walking in the desert. Somehow
I can understand how it must have felt. I had a sense of accomplishment, a
sense of camaraderie, of relying on each other to beat this landscape, this
desert. To just relax for the moment, have a much needed drink and lookup at
the stars. It was a hard life then, a much simpler life but fulfilling nonetheless.
The Women's Line. Excellent Food
I was shaken out of my reverie when Carol showed me the cashmere
shawl she bought at the shop here. It was only $ 12 US and made up for the high
cost of her beer which was 30 Dirhams or $ 8.25 US.
Appetizers arrived and all the camel riders came back to
their tables. Then a buffet dinner was served. Men formed in one line, woman in
another line. I am not sure what the women were served but our food was good.
Different way of using spices but the chicken shish-kebob was delicious. We
were offered lots and lots of different salads.
Henna
Strangely enough, the dessert table was set up for both
sexes.
Carol disappeared for a while and then came back with a
henna tattoo on her right hand. It had to dry so she was careful. She was told
it would last for 2 weeks and then disappear slowly.
The lights dimmed and the music started to play and….. Belly
dancing! The woman was tall, blond with long hair and Caucasian with very pale
skin. She had a kind of Scandinavian look. I was
Our Belly Dancer
expecting an Arabian beauty.
She was a good dancer though, but again, my hormones are not what they used to
be. She performed for a good 15 minutes and left with applause.
Next was a whirling dervish in a festive costume. He spun
and spun and at one point, his billowing skirt started to light up. And then
light up in more and more different colors and patterns. His clothing was
electrified with mini light bulbs that could be controlled or programmed. Tech
has arrived even in traditional dervish swirling. What an age we live in now.
A Whirling Dervish
The evening was good, relaxed, albeit, of course, touristy.
Our driver Sahid took us back to the hotel.
We had an insight, however shallow, in the ways of the
caravan, of the life in the desert. I would have liked to do this again but
then slower, on camel, in tents with story telling time and a real camp fire.
But I am only dreaming; I know it.
There Have Been Pearl Divers For a Thousand Years In the Emirates
Weaponry
More Weaponry
European Bronze Cannon From 1785
Falconry Is the Most Valued Traditional Sport In the Region
Today As It Was In the Past. Skill Is Needed To Train the
Birds To Hunt and To Respond To Commands
Today is Sunday, the beginning of the week in the UAE. Friday
and Saturday the people are off, Sunday, back to work. Stores are open from 10
AM – 8 PM. We had an exchange rate of $ 1US. = 3.65 Dirhams (DHS or DH).
Architectural Heaven in Dubai
Most of the people in the Emirates are Sunni Moslem, but
they have some Shia Moslem. There is even a Catholic Church in Dubai. You can
believe in anything you want, have any religious affiliation, but preaching it
in public, demonstrating it in public, proclaiming your faith or even talking
about it, are against the law here. Religious freedom is a given, but please
keep it to yourself, don't try to convert anybody to your point of view in a
public place. If you want, need to pray, do it in the privacy of your home or
in the designated areas. I like this idea!
There are 2.5 million people living in Dubai and only 20% of
those are native Arabs. The rest, 80% are from countries around the world but
mostly from Asia, specifically India.
Another Unusual Building
There are only 2 seasons here: summer, when the temperatures
are between 45 and 50 C. (120-130 F) with a humidity of near 100% and then winter,
with slightly cooler weather (90 F) and much lower humidity. We arrived in winter,
phew. Smiles…great! It only rains here 3 or 4 times a year, usually sometime in
January or February. All water used in the UAE comes from the Persian Gulf –
Arabian Sea. All drinking water is desalinated sea water and domestic oil is
their power supply for the desalination plants.
Every Building is Different
There are 7 Emirates in the UAE with Dubai being the 2nd
largest, the biggest is Abu Dhabi. Each Emirate is ruled by a different Emir (Sheik).
The UAE was founded in 1971, right after the British left. Citizenship is
difficult, some say impossible for foreigners to gain. All children assume the
nationality of the father.
The UAE has no old age pension, no social security, and no
health insurance for foreigners. Any foreigner turning 60 years of age must
leave the country. Many foreign workers here have only a limited time visa,
which can be renewed depending on the need for the person and the benefit for
the UAE. It’s a tough law, but logically it makes sense.
Orderly Traffic With the Burj Khalifa In the Background
Traffic lanes are strictly enforced and traffic moves in a
much more orderly way. Lashings are part of the penal code, even for foreigners. The
laws here are observed.
Only native Arabs may buy property, all others can only buy
leases. The maximum lease time is 99 years. When the 99 years are up, the
property must be GIVEN back to the government.
Housing On the Jumeirah Palm Island
Real estate might be the 3rd largest industry
here (after oil production and tourism). Areas that decades ago were pure
desert are today thriving with activity. There are 3, much talked about,
man-made peninsulas, the famous Palm Islands. In addition, a new section named
“The World” is in progress, where an additional 260 assorted sized islands are planned.
Two of The World Islands are now ready to be used... One is purely offices, the
other recreational no living accommodations - yet.
Real estate in the UAE is of the highest, most modern
caliber. World renowned architects show their latest creations here. It is a
wonderland for any city planner. Everything works in tandem, from utilities to
traffic planning, to public transportation. From residential to commercial sections,
every small detail is planned and executed. It seemed to me the world came here
and showed what could be done and all was planned accordingly. The city was designed. It
did not grow, it was grown.
Typical Arab Desert House Before 1966 With
Windcatcher Tower on Roof
Wind Tower From Inside
Our first stop on the city tour was the Dubai Museum inside the Al Fahaidi Fort. I am
glad we saw this. The museum is housed in an old fort left by the British and
contains a replica of a typical Arab house that was used in villages in the
area. It was an eye opener. It was a small house, the walls made out of woven
palm fronds, tied to a skimpy wooden frame. No nails were used. Everything was
tied together using ropes made from plants. The floor was dirt but most areas were
covered with a woven woolen rug. It was a desert house. Whatever the desert
provided was used, nothing else. The unique feature was a chimney-like tower
sitting on the side of the main room, which served as flue to let hot air rise.
Air, coming in low through the walls, infiltrated the room and was then drawn up through
this ‘chimney’(Windcatcher) creating airflow. It was badly needed when the outside temps
were 50 C. This design was on every old Arab house and worked like a fan. Standing below the tower, we could feel the breeze as the air rose.
Walls Allow Shade and Breezes From Outside.
Woven, Woolen Rug on Top of Reed Mats
It is amazing to see this old house today and realize that
this was the ‘normal’ house for many a family not so long ago. How long ago?
Before the oil discovery changed everything?Well, oil was first found in UAE in 1966, just 50 years ago. And Saudi
Arabian oil only in 1938, that was only 79 years ago. To see this, to see what
it was like and what it is now is almost incomprehensible. Wow, did they come a
long way. They came from the Dark Ages to the 21st century, if I
really think about it. There was nothing else I needed to see in this museum
that could drive this point further home in my mind. No old weapons, no old
dress, no old anything. From a shack-like house to the sky scrapers all around
me is enough for me. And all of this happened to the Arabs just because they
were lucky to be sitting on a huge oil lake. Oil, the only raw material besides
sand is all they had. I was floored.
Jumeirah Mosque
I am still floored!
We had a photo stop at the Jumeirah Mosque, the only mosque
in Dubai that welcomes non-moslems inside. Unfortunately it was closed that day
but it made a pretty picture. The mosque is not that old, construction began in
1976. It can hold 1200 people.
Zabeel Palace is the home of the Emir of Dubai, now
surrounded by walls, buildings, parks, etc, the compound was started in late 1950,
then was altered, added onto, etc., etc. In 1950 it was in the middle of a
sandy desert, today it’s in the middle of the city. Carol was on the wrong side
of the bus to get any pictures, but it was just a drive by. They don't want any
tourists traipsing all over their property.
Who Would Wear This Stuff and Where?
Dress Made Entirely of Gold Disks
The Gold Souk, wow! Very elaborate, ostentatious necklaces,
tiaras and rings. bangles and a chain-mail-like dress that would cover the
whole front of a woman, like a dress all in pure 24 k gold.
One Very Large Ring
Some were even studded with diamonds and pearls. It was so
over the top that I wondered if anybody would ever buy such jewelry. But
looking at it logically, these businesses are here to sell items, to make a
living from selling these. So, what do you think? Somebody “is” buying, they
are in business.
One store had the world's biggest ring (not for sale) but it
attracted tourists to the store. All of the gold is imported, mostly from India.
The area of the gold souk is large, one store next to the other, all
overflowing with exquisite, if strange to me, jewelry. It was a sight to see.
I Recognized Only Cinnamon
The Spice Market for 1000’s of years has been selling just that,
spices. The colors, the smell is unique to those narrow alleys, walks and
backyards. It is a world unto itself. Interspersed among the spice shops are
souvenir shops. We had an explanation of various spices and sampled some
chocolate covered dates. Yummy!
I would have had to buy an assortment of pins just to get a
camel pin for my hat. With a lot of nice smiles, a lot of head nodding and
shaking, with pantomime and my good looks, I finally got the man to just sell
me just the one camel pin, I was very proud of myself. I showed the acquired pin to
Carol who cheered with a hearty "Oh, for me? Thank you!" And the pin was gone. It's on her
hat now!
Burj Khalifa
Burj Khalifa tower: the highest building in the world, 820
meters high, 160 floors. The elevators get to the top in record setting time,
60 seconds. The building was named in honour of the president of the United Arab Emirates and ruler of Abu Dhabi, Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan; Abu Dhabi and the UAE government lent Dubai money to pay for its construction.
We had a 12 clock noon appointment and were on time. But, of
course, we had to go through the security check line. There were hundreds of people in line and
one by one we had to pass the pat down, the x ray machines. It took forever,
and then came the ticket endorsement line, a stamp on the back of the tickets
we all held which took an additional 10 minutes.
View From the Top. Desert Can Almost Be Seen Outside of Dubai
So, ok, I stood in line,
waiting. Then the line was held up because of the picture takers, you stand in
front of a blank wall and later they superimpose your face to postcards with the Burj Khalifa in the background. I am still in line, but I walked past this photo business, voicing my frustrations with: "This is ridiculous". Then we had to walk through long corridors until we came to a fork in the line. Express tickets right, regular tickets left. We were directed left.
OK, I lost it. Loudly
I said: “This is idiotic, I'm out of here“. I turned around and left the group
to finish their tour. No way am I spending hours in line to see Dubai from the
top. It does not matter how rare the view, how high the tower. So, I cannot
tell you how it was seeing Dubai from the top. (But I can - see my pictures and see the video of the fountains at the Burj Khalifa below. Turn on your speakers.)
Fountains at the Burj Khalifa
After the Burj we had a quick visit to the beach. Yes people
were suntanning themselves, some women in small bikinis. Nobody seemed to mind,
nobody really paid attention to them.
Nobody Seemed to Care What
Bathing Attire Was Worn
We also stopped for a photo op at a hotel where rooms go up
to US$ 12,000.00 per night.
I truly wish them a good night’s sleep; if they sleep 8
hours that would be $ 25.00 a minute.
Some people don't seem to care about that.
A few of our group then went on their own to a mall just to
see the ski slope and the bob sled track this mall has. Yes, real snow in the
desert. It is held artificially cold at -2 C and people really ski there. I did
not go.
In 2020 the world expo will be in Dubai, there is lots of
hectic building going on to be ready for the expo. It is a bit outside of the downtown
area but in time it will blend together, making Dubai an ever larger city. The
city spreads out and keeps on spreading out.
Our Dhow For a Dinner Cruise
In the evening we ended the day with a Dhow ride and dinner on
the Dubai creek. Yes, Dubai has a “river” of some sorts. Well it had one, now
filled with saltwater, since the fresh water in the old river was used a while
ago already and is now all gone. Still, they call it a creek and it is navigational
for quite a few miles inland. Tunnels run under it for traffic to flow easier,
ferries cross it to move people and it adds a nice touch to this desert city. Cruising
boats are for hire for dinner parties. Fiona organized for all of us to have
dinner together on this night-time excursion. The lights were on, the mood
festive. Some ladies wore their best dress, made a gala out of it, very nice.
Except one thing, we had to wait 40 minutes for the last 2 people to arrive.
The Diesel engine was chugging, idling, waiting. The food was being held warm.
Birthday Cake, Birthday Girl and Two Young Admirers
The
fumes from the exhaust were objectionable after some time. The main waiter was telling
us start eating, while we waited on the pier. He urged us not once but a few
times until a man from our group blew his stack telling the waiter we will eat
once we are on the way, once we are moving, not with the fumes all around us. Finally
the young couple showed up and we left the pier. Fiona felt embarrassed,
especially since today was her birthday and Gary even had made arrangements for
her birthday cake. In the end all had a great time. There was a family with 2
little girls on board, celebrating something. Fiona gave both of the little
girls her birthday cake. Ah, the smiles! Carol then gave the girls some
Canadian pins she always carries and the girls were so proud. There was lots of
picture taking and smiles. The food turned out good as well. What ends
well is well.
Showing Off Their Canadian Flag Pins
It was a busy day, sometimes trying, but all survived.
Entertainment on the Dhow Dinner Cruise (Turn on your speakers.)
