21. Fortaleza, Brazil

Fortaleza, Brazil

This is day 13 of the cruise already. Just to show you how time flies.

During the last few days we attended destination presentations given on board to be better prepared when we do get off the ship for a visit. Not only did the lecturer talk about Fortaleza but also about the marine life around us. From whales to penguins to birds, to mammals, the Southern Hemisphere has its’ own wild inhabitants.

Carol has already booked a penguin tour in the Falklands; I passed on that tour.

Skyscrapers of  Fortaleza In the Rain

So we are off the ship to explore the city of Fortaleza. It is my first visit to a city in all of Brazil. What will it be like?  How will the people be different from the rest of the world?

Time to find out!

Cathedral

To start with, it rained. We needed to take a shuttle to the port terminal and then another shuttle to the city proper, dropping us off near the Cathedral. Well, not close to the Cathedral but a few blocks away.

Many Stunning Stained Glass Windows

The Church itself was typical, lots of stained glass windows, very Catholic, very ordinary in many ways but yes, it was a big Church, a Cathedral. Carol liked it, she likes to visit churches, as for me?  Meh!

Graffiti Everywhere

Now Which Is My Electricity Wire?

The city of Fortaleza has many ‘skyscraper’-like buildings built close together in what seemed to be a random pattern. Graffiti was on almost every surface that could be reached. Wires to carry electricity, cable TV, or what not, were strung between poles. All the wires were bunched together, to me it looked like being in India when it came to the wiring. My impression was a slovenly looking town.

 A few blocks away from the cathedral is the ‘famous’ Old Mercado.  A large city block filled with small shops full of schlock. We bought nothing. The Mercado is a tourist attraction (old jail?) but the sellers of the articles, the small shop owners, have really no clue as to what tourists are looking for. Totally out of sync with what the demand of a New Yorker or worldly person could be, they offered items Made in China for sale. Sorry it was really bad.

Multi-Level New Mercado

The same happened at the General Mercado, a more modern building near the Cathedral. I tried to buy a short sleeved shirt and walked up and down all the floors of this market. It’s impossible to find good merchandise, no matter how much I tried. They just don’t have it. All the clothing I looked at was cheap looking, baggy and totally unattractive. It is amazing to me to see so much stuff spread over at least 6 floors of 3 football-sized floors without finding at least ‘something’ useful, something attractive.

Sorry Brazil, my first impression was not a good one. I hope it gets better after Fortaleza. I so hoped to find a nice town, especially since the presenter of the destination presentation showed us the potential of the area. I guess since the presenter was Brazilian he wore rose colored glasses.

Quite a Bit of Trash Around But Not Seen Here

I sat for a while just outside the store, waiting for the rain to subside. People, lots of people were milling about and I felt a certain ‘resignation’ in their faces, in their body language, in their way of living.

They are resigned to living like this. They looked to me like they were ‘washed out’.  No fight left in them.

Locals - Mid-Day

We were told there is Wi-Fi at the bus terminal but when they asked for my passport number and my email address, I passed on using their ‘service’. I don’t need Wi-Fi that badly.

Back on board we had time galore, we even had time to do the laundry. The machines are just down the hall from our cabin.

I was a bit bummed out for the rest of the day after finding this graffiti-laced town, full of barred windows and doors, narrow roads and decrepit looking buildings.

Tons of Trash

Why Brazil?  Why live like that?

We tried the early theater show and watched a magician, Michael Barron, who was very good. I could not figure out how he did any of his tricks.

VERY well done, Michael, bravo!

Then we went for a later dinner but it did not work for us. The lineup to the Bordeaux dining room was way too long. Almost like on the first day of the cruise. What gives, what is going on? So we went to the buffet upstairs instead.

Back in our cabin, we watched a movie on TV about a woman in the early days of NASA, a mathematician, who experienced the discrimination going on at that time. I believe it’s called “Hidden Figures”.  A GREAT movie.

20) Crossing the Equator

Crossing the Equator

King Neptune and His Helpers

Pollywogs no more for us!  We did that, kissed the dead fish and were slimed a few years ago. We no longer have to endure the rituals of crossing the equator for the first time. But it was fun watching the ‘newbie’s’ being baptized.

Kiss THAT???

Actually we crossed the Equator last night on Saturday into Sunday, around midnight, but since everybody was asleep, we now needed to ask Neptune for forgiveness, not permission. 

Trying to Catch Coloured Water In a Cup

It is a much harder task to do. Neptune was not so happy that we snuck in. His ‘punishments’ were rather severe. Raw eggs were broken over the heads of the pollywogs, they were dyed by buckets of colored goop and naturally, they had to kiss a dead fish also.

More Goop On Pollywogs

What a Mess But a Good Time Had By All

Even the Captain of the ship and 3 other crew members had to walk the plank into the pool. They had to do this in uniform, into the water as is! 

Captain (with Mic) and Officers About to Walk the Plank

 Only then could we feel the appeasement of the gods… it was a mess on deck but somehow everybody smiled. 

Our Friends, Jean and Ross

Luckily we found some shade to watch all these antics, but still, being delicate…

Carol got a bit sunburned.

19. Sea Days

Sea days

We are at sea for the next few days.  Pure cruise days, no ports-of-call at all.

I Believe Devil's Island Is on the Right But the Prison
Was On Ile Royale, in the Centre

From Trinidad, the ship aimed her bow for the Island Group known as ‘Devil’s Island’; made famous in Henri Charriere’s Book “Papillion”. 

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Devil%27s_Island

Book: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henri_Charrière

Movie: 
https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0070511/

Hut Where Alfred Dreyfus Lived (Foreground)
After Prison Closed (Top of Picture)

Watch the movie if you want to get a feel for the conditions in the 1930’s in this part of the world. The history of Devil’s Island is not a happy one. Not even for the Warden or the Watchmen who had to be there.

The temperatures outside were hot, sticky, humid, awful. Living here would not be for me, I am too Nordic for this part of the world.

Some Stones Remaining From the 'Insane Asylum' (R. Edge of Isl)
Look At the Wind

Devil’s Island was only listed as a ‘sail past’ - because the Island could not handle our numbers? Or was it because we could not use a tender efficiently to get to the old penal colony?  No matter, we did not go on land; we did not even get very close to the Island group but just circled around for a view of a horrible place.  

Crew Dressed Up As Prisoners

Somehow the Island gift shop people made it on board, and sold T-shirts of Devil's Island for U.S. $27 apiece.  Strange that they could get to us, but we could not get to them?

Virtual Reality?

The lifestyle on board became beach-like. The lounge chairs were mostly filled; people lived in bathing suits next to the rather largish pool. The smaller, covered pool was less crowded. The free Ice cream stand was busy with patrons. Deck personal carried drinks, snacks, whatever towards the recliners. Those drinks are not free; you need to pay extra for anything from the bar. 

It is strange to watch people come from breakfast and then ‘rest’ and eat more to then just ‘go for lunch’ and rest some more. 

Carol and I took in all the lessons the ship had to offer. There were lectures and seminars that were provided each day and we attended what interested us. A series of DNA lectures got my attention. The man who gave these lectures was very knowledgeable and had divided his research into ‘cases’ of forensic discoveries. It felt like a bit of detective work that was being shared with the audience. For example: 

Were the bodies dug up near Ekaterinburg, Russia, really the Romanov family? He proved, beyond a reasonable doubt, using DNA science that yes, those were the missing bodies the Russians were looking for. He explained each step that was taken and how the DNA analyses led to an objective conclusion.

I found it interesting, Carol not so much.

She favored her gemology lectures, spent hours hearing and learning about rocks, about where they are found, what their hardness grade is on the Mohs Scale.

 https://www.gemsociety.org/article/hardness-and-wearability/

We do our thing, each to his/her liking. 

For me there were not enough lectures, I am hungry for information, newness, and knowledge.

Between the learning, the meals, the socialization, time flew past.

The ship added special ‘shopping ‘days, where items were on sale. Amazing to watch how people almost fight to get at the perceived bargains.We picked out some gifts to bring back, like $10 silk neckties that I know are just about cost. Carol found 2 shawls she liked. 

All Dressed Up and SOMEPLACE to Go

New Hair - Fancy

 


Carol tried a new hairstyle from the on board hair salon.

We watched the movie ‘Victoria and Abdul’, we kept busy.

It sounds a bit boring but really, time flew by each day.

We met a varied bunch of people each day, especially at dinner time. We opted to not sit at the same table each day, but to be moved around. Sure we had a few, ahem… difficult times, but most people were interesting enough. Some were delightful, others…. not so much.

Our efforts to meet the people we delight in every night for dinner met with the logistics of the ship. At first, it just did not seem to work for us. So, let it be as it is, we are establishing our own routine. This arrangement works for us. John, the Maitre D’, got to know us and we him, he takes good care of us now. Tipping helps when you are on board and need not be excessive, but it makes the crew notice you.

Our next port of call is Brazil, so let’s jump to that one.