Xhosa Village, near
Richards Bay, South Africa
Having just finished reading Nelson
Mandela’s fascinating book, “Long Walk to Freedom”, I was curious to meet the
Xhosa people (Mandela’s tribe) and learn more about their customs. Xhosa is
pronounced with a clicking sound for the “Xh” (made by pressing your tongue
against the roof of your mouth, then quickly removing it) and then saying “osa”.
So I booked a tour to the village of Khaya La Bantu. The meaning of the village
name is “Home of the People”. It is a re-creation of a real village before colonial
times but it was interesting to see how the huts were constructed and used for
different purposes.
We were welcomed into
the Village by a group of dancing Xhosa People. We followed the custom afforded
to dignitaries by walking over a red blanket and then entered a large, thatched roof building where the
men sat on one side and the women on the other. Xhosas, in their colorful regalia, performed more songs and dances of welcome.
More Welcome Dances by the Xhosa |
Then the men were taken by a male tribal leader to another hut to learn about the rites of circumcision. Since I was not allowed to attend, I cannot provide the details except that it is a rite of passage from boyhood to manhood when a boy reaches the age of 14 years. At least now the tribe has been convinced to use sterile equipment although it is still performed by the Medicine Man of the tribe.
Meanwhile, the women were taken to another hut by a 96 year old tribal woman to learn what young women are taught about love. Young women are bare breasted until dating age when they are taught the questions to ask if a young man shows interest in them: 1. “What is your name”?. 2. “Where do you live”? Who is your family? 3. “What is your job”?
Female circumcision is no longer practiced but young women are “inspected” just before they are married to ensure that they are still virgins.
Articulate, Passionate, 96 Year Old Tribal Leader |
Meanwhile, the women were taken to another hut by a 96 year old tribal woman to learn what young women are taught about love. Young women are bare breasted until dating age when they are taught the questions to ask if a young man shows interest in them: 1. “What is your name”?. 2. “Where do you live”? Who is your family? 3. “What is your job”?
Female circumcision is no longer practiced but young women are “inspected” just before they are married to ensure that they are still virgins.
Our teacher then got
off topic and talked passionately about current issues for their young people,
which seem to be similar to those in many other parts of the world. The young
men leave the villages to look for work in the cities but because they cannot
find jobs in the city (50% of young people are unemployed), they are forced to
live in squalor in the townships. Here they succumb to drugs and then turn to
violence to procure money for more drugs. It becomes a vicious circle. I was
very impressed with the insight, passion and physical agility of this 96 year
old woman.
Next, we were treated
to a traditional meal of chicken stew with mealie (like rice?) but I have no
clue about all the rest of it. Dessert was deep fried dough sprinkled with
cinnamon. It was all delicious.
It was an interesting,
informative day even though the Xhosa People don't actually live in this
village but in regular, but simple, homes across the valley.
Lunch |
Postscript: Nelson
Mandela was born close to here and is buried just down the road. However our
tour did not allow time to visit his grave.
Recently Married Xhosa Woman |
Beautiful Children |
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