Cambodia 2020 - 5. Tuk-tuk to the Old Market

5. Tuk-tuk to the Old Market

One of the attractions everybody recommends is the Old Market in the center of Siem Reap.

The Old Market - A Block in Each Direction

We got up early to make this a full day of exploring the inner city of Siem Reap and now, knowing not to walk, hired a tuk-tuk to take us there. My negotiations with the tuk-tuk driver landed us a fare of $2 one way. 

I had a foggy idea where

All Kinds of Rice

the Old Market was, I studied the map the hotel gave us. I learn quickly to not be taken for a ‘ride’.

Our tuk-tuk let us out a bit before the actual Market building and we walked the streets into the Old Market Hall, a huge hall with many doors and entrances. It was crowded in there. Very narrow

Dragon Fruit - White or Dark Red Pulp With Small, Black Seeds

aisles created what seemed to be a maze of stalls and merchants. Yes, you probably can buy anything in here; from clothing to food, to jewelry to whatnot. They even had ‘restaurants’ within. Already at the entrances, shack-like setups inundated us with their offerings. Like hucksters, people yelled at us to buy. “Just one dollar”: was a common approach. 

Crabs (L) Are a Specialty in Cambodia

 There was a cacophony of sounds, sights, smells and activities. 

Carol and I walked into the mayhem, slithered through the narrow, dark isles inside the market and then could not wait to get out.

Phew! NOT for us!

Preparing ???

Its not that I am claustrophobic, but I really, really don't need anything from this place, this Old Market. 

Well, that’s not really true. I did buy a knife! We needed a peeling knife for the mangoes we bought yesterday. It’s an odd looking knife but works just fine… yes, US $1. I used it every day; the knife was a bargain.

Multi-Purpose Knife, Peeler, Opener

Seriously, would you eat at the ‘restaurant’ counter in this place? If you said yes, consider the implications of the poor hygiene we witnessed. I did eat like that in Africa once, I was sick for months.

So, even though this Old Market is recommended by many brochures as THE place to visit… it was not for me.

Long, Crowded Counters

Our next planned visit was the Pub Street section; another MUST see recommendation, just a few blocks away from the Old Market. We could walk to it.

But first we had a Coke at a French Style Bistro a block from the Old Market. I picked this

Cambodian Coke

Bistro because 2 ‘older’ fellows were just sitting at a table watching the world go by. I thought, yes, that is up to my speed. Talking to them revealed they were French and I guess, about 70 years old.

Remember, Cambodia is a former French Protectorate, only gaining Independence in 1953.

Both fellows, friends, lived off their French pensions. They told me that they loved Cambodia, had been here now for the last 7 years and would

Pub Street

never go and live in France again. They found their Nirvana. Their pension money goes a long way in Cambodia and they just love the attitude of the people. Everybody always smiles, no matter their hardship. Those older men let the world go by and just enjoy each day as it comes.

Great! But a Little Early

Good for them, I thought… then asked myself if I could do that.

Well, could I?  Let me think on that one for a while, I will let you know after all the blogs.

We now walked through the section of town called Pub Street.

Cleaning Up From the Night Before

It’s a broad street with many pubs, clubs, restaurants and hubbub even along the side streets too. Remember we are at Pub Street in the early morning hour, about 10 AM and all we see is the ‘Morning After’ look, the ambiance I was feeling this morning was like a hang-over covering this Street. Let’s call Pub Street the ‘seedy’ section of town. Not really, but close!

Dara Teng, Double Amp, Blind in 1 Eye & Major Abd. Issues

The restaurants were cleaning their floors, sweeping the stuff from last night into piles. We saw shops that were closed now, since most of the activities here start after it gets dark. What we saw was the effort to keep the places ‘clean’ and attractive. It’s a young people’s section, we are old timers. “I don’t belong here” is what I thought. Again, this is not for me… any longer!

While wandering through a side street, a homemade cart, which has a bicycle/box/tuk-tuk arrangement, aims for us. A small man inside, in broken English wants to sell us books. It’s a rolling mini book store with books along one side of this panel ‘truck’. The man ‘driving’ uses his hands to pump a bicycle-like gear box contraption. He has no legs; he seems diminutive because of it.

Dara Teng and 2 of His Children

In halting English he explains that he was injured by stepping on a landmine and he is just trying to make a living, selling books to foreigners. All the books are in English. Each book, no matter the title, costs $10.

Carol and I looked at each other, we usually don’t soften too much to sob stories but here is a man who is trying to work, is trying to provide for his family. Read below his approach to making a living. Would you buy his books?  We bought 2 books –

Dara Teng's Handout - How Can You Not Support Him?

Story of a Courageous Young Girl's Experience With the Khmer Rouge.

 To be continued…