Through my eyes

living my life without regrets

Wednesday, August 01, 2018

24. Rio de Janeiro


Rio de Janeiro…………Carnival 2018  

33 Degrees Celsius (92F) Hazy, Humid: Summer in Rio.
Coming Into Rio At Dawn

This is day 18 of our Cruise and one main reason we took this cruise in the first place:  Carnival in Rio.

We booked 2 excursions for Rio. The first tour, an all day tour, started at 7.10 in the morning and we were ready. We had an air-conditioned bus that took us to all the highlights Rio had to offer. Our Guide was Michael Gallagher, yes an Irish name, but he was born in Rio and what was even better, was his perfect English. You would think he came from L.A. His usage of idioms was perfect. 

We had a GREAT guide.

The temperature, even at this early hour was hot. 

Jack Fruit - Very Sweet
Our first stop was to the statue of ‘Christ the Redeemer’. 

Michael arranged for us to take the trolley train up the mountain. It’s an open car, cog train that crawled up the steep mountain. It swayed, too, like being on a ship. The view from the train was scenic and we rode through mostly woods. The climb was steep and we could see Jack Fruit hanging on the trees along the tracks, ready for the picking. This is tropical paradise and yes, yes, it’s hot. 

Escalator to the Top

An Awe-Inspiring Sight
We had one or two stops on the way up to let other folks on board but then arrived at the top of the railway. Now we needed to take the elevators up to the top where the Statue was located. Michael, our guide, was good. He had all the tickets prearranged and we did not have to wait in line at the ticket booth. We had the use of the 2 elevators and moved up in smaller groups fairly rapidly. At least it seemed to me that the waiting lines were not a problem, at least for us.
One of Many 'Silly' Pictures

Once we stepped off the elevator we had to go higher yet, now we had a series of escalators we had to use before we ended up at the foot of the pedestal on which stood ‘Christ the Redeemer’. My first impressing was: It’s HUGE!

It was almost impossible to take a picture from the bottom of the statue straight up; so the good folks who built this attraction, arranged for terraces to be built all around the statue so people could take photographs. Yes, yes, it’s touristy and there were hundreds of people around us, and from the languages I heard, they came from all over the world. It was like we visited the tower of Babel. Everybody laughed and cheered and had a good time and spoke in???  All I can tell you is it felt very international to me.
Trying to Get the Perfect Shot

This spot is a ‘must see’ in Rio, even to just take a goofy picture of yourself trying to sit on the hands of the statue. People were lying on the ground to get a better perspective for their camera shots. It was so crowded one had to wait to take a picture. Everybody wanted to stand in the ‘perfect’ spot for a picture but the behaviour of most people was civilized.  People had patience and yes, some bumping into each other was inevitable but in hindsight… it was OK.  

Just so you know…. watch your wallet. It’s a great place for pick-pockets.
Amazing Views

I had a strange feeling while at the terrace in front of the statue… I felt like being on unsteady ground. Even Carol kind of shared this feeling. It’s not that the terrace swayed, but it felt unsteady, felt weird, might even be that the whole terrace was a bit slanted?  I just don’t know it’s just a feeling I had.

The statue stood at 2300 feet right on top of a knob of a hill and it was (100 feet) 30 meters high. 

Sugar Loaf Mountain On the Right
The people who put this statue up, did a marvelous job in picking out the location (1922 to 1931). The view was stupendous. Below the statue, all of Rio with its many hills and barrios (boroughs), was spread out.  Rio de Janeiro looked marvelous from up here.

In the distance, across the valley, near the shore line, near the ocean, I saw Sugar Loaf Mountain. It seems like Sugarloaf is near the Statue of the Redeemer when one looks at postcards, but it’s a good distance across Rio to Sugarloaf. But totally visible, from the Redeemer you can see Sugarloaf……and you can see the Redeemer from almost anywhere when you are in Rio.

Way up the hill, even at night you can see Him. There He is…. His arms spread out like a Protector…Christ the Redeemer; one of the modern Wonders of the World. 

We have many photos but will post only a few…

Many Kinds of Meat Served

The way down was anti-climactic. So it was a good time to have lunch.

Michael picked a Brazilian bar, all part of the tour, where we feasted on meat roasted on a spit. You might know these places… there is a buffet bar with salads and other things, but the main attraction is skewers of meat of all kinds that are brought around to your table. They slice off as much meat as you like, as often as you like. You just east… the servers know you can only eat so much… just eat….no, no, I mean it, eat some more…. Ah, how about this steak? … I have some more…. EAT.   It was a feast…it certainly was your fault if you walked away hungry. 

Carol had a fizzy Brazilian drink which she said tasted somewhat like Ginger Ale… the meal was good.
Who's Happy?

Now we had to go from here, after this meal, to the Sugarloaf Mountain. OK we will go by bus, and yes, it is air-conditioned but it is Carnival in Rio. There are people everywhere, some roads are blocked off. Traffic is normally slow but now it just crawled….

OK, we got to Sugarloaf, another ‘just have to see it’ kind of location.

Again Michael had the tickets prearranged and we could just walk in. This time our whole group, easily fit into just one cable car……and off we went.
Cable Car to the Top

The view while going up was stunning. We rode straight up to the tippy top; below us was greenery, woods-like or bushes…hard to tell from up there. The panorama of the harbor, the ship yards, the boat basins, the beaches and the tiny houses was breath-taking. We forgot for a moment that we were suspended by just a small cable and were hanging by a thread, literally. 
View From the Cable Car

The view over the city was not as high as from the Redeemer but it had its own charm. On the top were shops, restaurants, and benches, smallish terraces to visit and just gawk down over the world below. It was not a small place on top. I wandered around a bit, looking here, looking there. This was a unique venue; a different point of view. It’s not every day that I look at the world from way on high, yet remain grounded with my feet on the ground. 

Favela
 Below me is Rio, I can now see all those favelas. 


I understand that each valley, each mountain, heck each side of the mountain is its own town so-to-speak; its own neighborhood. Brazil could not keep up with the influx of people to Rio and new people made their own housing, decided on their own walkways, roads, streets, etc. People, especially at first soldiers, formed their own neighborhoods. Yes, it could be considered a slum, or a shanty town, but where do you put all these people. Housing was and is in short supply for Rio.
Another Favela

There is not much flat land around. And…. how do you put sanitation services up those steep hills, like water, electric, phone lines, etc.?

From way up here Rio looks pretty. The favelas look quaint, colorful.  I know my view is skewed from up here. Rio has crime; some favelas are even too dangerous for the police to go into. But I don’t see this from up here. I have a privileged view of the city. I arrived in an air-conditioned bus too. I had Michael who arranged for me to not even stay in line…. Life for me in Rio is good…. I had a tremendous lunch….
Copacabana Beach From Sugar Loaf

Not so for most of the people who live here……. there are millions who live in those favelas.

We spent about an hour just on top of Sugar Loaf and then took the cable car back down to the waiting bus. 


Street Scenes During Carnival
Below the mountain, on the streets, life was hectic, street noise was everywhere, people walked about in silly outfits, not very well done but they did want to be someone different than their usual self on Carnival. 

Carnival is not in just one location in Rio, its spread out, each neighborhood has their spot to celebrate, to dance, sing, be silly and forget real life for some moments.

Yes, people congregate to big public spaces, like the beaches and part of our tour was to see that. Michael and his bus driver tried to show us Copacabana Beach, they really tried, but it being Carnival, there was just no way to get near to the beach via bus. Even on foot it would have been too crowded.
Amazing Beaches, Lots of People

Ah, the famous beaches of Rio.

They all kind of run into each other, forming a very long beach and certain sections have their own name, depending in what Borough they are in. The beaches of Rio are along a very, very large lagoon like bay. 


The most famous would be Copacabana Beach and we tried to see this but, like I said, it was impossible during Carnival, especially via bus.

We even tried to get near Ipanema Beach but again, it was too crowded. Traffic was at a standstill. I heard so much about this beach, I even loved the song: ‘The Girl from Ipanema’ and the bosa nova was first danced here.  And being a male, I know the micro bikini was developed here.  


We tried and tried but could only get to Leblon Beach, a part of Ipanema, and then only because the driver parked the bus illegally. We could not stay long; we just had to get a whiff of what it was like to be on a Rio beach. 
Carol and I found a shady spot and just watched.

We watched hang gliders that came off the tip of a mountain nearby land on the beach. It was surreal.
Another Hang Glider Coming In to Land

People were just loafing; families sat on a blanket, kids ran around, older people sipped their coffee or drank their sodas, there were some convenience type stores there, but not really a very commercial atmosphere. 

The fire brigade had a trailer parked under the palm trees, I think they worked here as lifeguards, but I don’t know for sure. Life or the style of living seemed the easy life.

Some people played volley ball and somehow the heat did not seem so bad. The wind off the water seemed to make it pleasant. 
Just Hangin' Out

I could have spent a day here, just watching, doing nothing, sitting in a hammock.
But, we were just passing through… we were just getting a whiff of it all………I liked Rio; my privileged Rio.

Our way back to the ship was an ordeal for the bus driver, he used every short cut he knew, and still it took us some time to get back to the ship. We saw, from the bus, where the Sambadrome was, but that is the blog for tomorrow.

So Much Energy


For today I want to end it, but not before I praise the folks that came on board the ship and danced the Samba in the Ship’s Theatre for all of us ‘old’ folks. Dancing the Samba is the Carnival custom.




The Mini Bikini


What a hoot………… a great show, great day, well worth the money we spent on this excursion. 

















Tuesday, July 31, 2018

23. Ilhabela, Brazil


Ilhabela, Brazil          Hot, humid weather.  

It’s the Friday before Carnival arrives in 2018…. anticipation is high

This Island is very close to Rio de Janeiro, our next and main stop. The Island would not exist if it were not for tourism. We tendered with a small boat from the ship to the pier and it was terrible. 
Tenders

The organization of the tenders and the crew’s helpfulness left a lot to be desired. It took us 90 minutes to leave the ship and land ashore. Passengers were fuming; the incompetence of the crew was obvious. 

We were told that a ‘medical emergency’ had to get off the ship first and then some person fell getting into a tender and had to be seen by the Doctor. Yet I have a hard time believing that with 4 tenders’ running back and forth this would take an hour and a half. Well, maybe I am cruel in judging the crew, but the return trip proved me right, the crew had no experience with their shuttle tenders.
Very Clean Streets, Lots of Shops

The Island is set up for tourism. The streets are clean, there are stores everywhere, in fact they are packed right next to each other, enticing you to come and shop. They only forgot one thing… the merchandise they offer is boring. I saw very few people actually getting into the shop to buy. We tried finding items we could buy but no such luck. The weather is hot, 88 F and humid.  I guess I get cranky in humid weather.
Pretty Little Church


We visited the church in town, Carol likes churches.
The Black Madonna







Inside the Church



Most people coming off the ship just walked around then looked for a restaurant to sit and eat. And yes, they had restaurants that offer dinners, but this is the middle of the day… there were not that many that just had snacks or just drinks where you could sit and watch the crowd. The outside temps were too hot to sit in the sun; nobody wanted to sit outside at a café style coffee shop in this heat. What people were looking for was an air conditioned place with windows overlooking the outside activities. 

Well, they did not have those.
More Shops

We found a place, after scouring the small town that had A/C and Wi-Fi but it was on a side street, away from the view, away from the main ‘happenings’ of the Island. This place had no view at all.

The Wi-Fi was not working properly, so we just sat, cooled off from our walk through town and window shopping and then decided to call it quits. 

Waiting to Get Back On the Tender, At Least Water Was Offered

We went back in line to get back to the ship. Standing in line was almost as bad as getting off the ship. 45 minutes standing in the sun to board the tender. Long lines of people were herded into walk ways to get back on the ship. For me this made it a bad experience. I do not like the shuffle in a queue line, shuffle forward a little, and then wait, only to shuffle a bit more to wait again. For 45 minutes?

I make a bad tourist.

The sanctuary of the ship appealed to me more than the heat. The A/C on board worked well all over the ship. 

Carol was hopeful of ‘winning’ a give-away at Effy's. She went there whenever she sees a promotion to put a coupon in the box and hoped her name would be drawn. So far she has won an emerald necklace but I am sure it is not worth millions. Or even thousands!

But she was having a good time.

I understand that we are all different…  some folks will absolutely love Ilhabela, it is a weekend getaway for many people from Rio, It‘s just that I might be jaded having seen so many tourist towns. 
Schlock For Sale

Those towns do not seem ‘real’ to me, no real town has so many shops next to each other selling t-shirts, bandanas or plastic toys. It’s not real; it’s not what ‘normal’ towns look like. 

I am now looking forward to Rio, and Carnival……  let’s go there!








22. Back at Sea


Back at Sea (2 days)

We are aiming for Rio but meanwhile we have a few more sea days and one more minor stop.

The sea days, while it seems there is nothing to do, go by quickly.

I now understand why some folk do not even bother getting off a ship. They just remain on board for the whole cruise. No, they do not seem to have an interest in seeing another city, or fighting the lines or the crowds. Some people here on board just ‘vacation’. Their food is prepared for them, they are being served, their beds are made, their room is tidied, everybody waits on them. They love it and do not want to go ashore. I am not at that age yet, or I am too curious to not see stuff.

I prepare as much as I can before I go off the ship.

I organize myself and book excursions if I find they are good and reasonable and informative.

I use the time between ports to learn about the next thing coming up.

YUMMY!
But yes, it’s a good life doing nothing, just loafing, drinking cappuccinos and eating cake and cookies.

There is nothing wrong with those sea days….

Some people dash down to the on-board gym to work out, I tried that a few times, but I am more content with sitting and watching. I will never again be 30 years old; I know I am getting older. I can live with myself the way I am.