Winter 2019 - 7. My Interpretation of Bali History

7.  My Interpretation of Bali History

Bali is a volcanic Island, sitting at the convergence of 3 tectonic plates (Java Trench) and is part of the ‘Ring of Fire’, the dreaded chain of volcanoes along the Pacific Rim. 

Mount Batur, Dark Area Is From the Last Eruption in 2008

Science has determined that human life has been around Java and Bali for a long time. Humans as we know them have inhabited the Island of Bali for nearly 4000 years for sure.

On the bigger Island, Java the Island next to Bali, the famous Java man was found. This Homo Erectus specimen is supposed to be 700,000 to a million years old.

 

Since Bali, during its geological history was attached to Java, I can only say there were people nearby. Whatever they looked like, whatever species they were, where they came from, etc. is not really important unless you need to know, in which case you need to study it yourself. For my head it’s important to know there were folks around here for about 4000 years.

Bali and the larger neighboring Island of Java share a huge cultural history. Bali has had its distinct Religion since at least the 1^st Century AD; a mix of Buddhism and special Hinduism and ancient shamanistic beliefs. Sects of different Hindu beliefs ruled throughout the Island. Even today, Balinese Hinduism is practiced by at least 83% of the population on Bali.

Lake Batur in the Caldera of Mount Batur Volcano

Bali’s culture was mainly influenced by India and China and the Hindu religion.

Just after 900 AD a watering system was built and established on Bali that guaranteed water for almost every rice field throughout the year. This system, Subak, is still in effect today and is one of the UNESCO World Heritage sites for this system. This Subak system is managed by priests in special water temples who control the flow of water (most of it coming from Lake Batur), when to plant and many other aspects of village life. It is not just a system of canals, tunnels and weirs and flow of water but a complex interacting system of religion, village life and the cultural use of water for the total Eco-system of the Bali Island. Subak is still very important and is at the center of life on Bali. 

Shrine at Lake Batur

The history of Bali is not an easy one to understand. I never heard about it in school or heard about it in my life until I came to Ubud. I might write some inaccurate points here, but that is why I call it ‘my’ history of Bali. 

I understand most of the history until the year 900 or so, until about that time there were no real Kings in Java or Bali; at least in the normal sense that a King rules over the land. Java and Bali and maybe more areas in Indonesia were ruled as Thalassocracies. It’s the ruling of the harbors, the rivers, the water - Naval Supremacy but not ruling over the land.

But around 900 AD power struggles started that established a more general understanding of the word King. Kublai Khan, as Emperor in about 1293,   showed the Javanese or the Balinese that an Emperor rules over Kings. Around 1300 the trade with China increased and the influence of China was another changing force on Bali. 

But then, in about 1500, the Europeans found Java and Bali and all the other Spice Islands and the Far East. With the Europeans, huge changes hit Indonesia and beyond. We all know the history of that.

Balinese Hinduism prevailed however, throughout all those European influences. Oh, I am sure the Protestants, the Catholics and many others sent missionaries to change the minds of the people of Bali but… there was not much of a change. Bali is Hindu. Not Hindu like in India, but Balinese Hindu, a mix of traditional old religions, a mix of Buddhism and Hinduism.

Gargoyle-Like Stone Carving

All of the above explains to me why the buildings are covered with gods, with ornaments, with demons, with offerings, flowers, leis, coverings, etc. It also explains the statues and small temples on the side of the roads and in the parks. It explains the gargoyle-like, scary looking aberrations of some god to me.  Bali is Hindu.  Bali is ‘managed’ by Priests. And even in the modern age, the age of the internet, Bali’s Subak System does not change that. People still decorate their living spaces with the good omens or install protections against the evil that lurks everywhere. Bali is ruled by Balinese Hinduism. The flower offerings the rice on a banana leaf all means something in the Subak system.

A Household God

I had to take a guided tour of Ubud to get the gist of this. I will write about the intricacies of this later. You can skip this later part if you are not into religion.

Small Ganesh Shrine at Our Hotel