Winter 2019 - 8) The Royal Palace in Ubud

8)  The Royal Palace in Ubud

Main Entrance to the Grounds But You Cannot Use the Main Doors. Enter From the Side Doors

"Puri Saren Agung” is the name for the local Royal Residence in Ubud. The buildings we see today were started in 1800 and most were finished by 1823.  Ida Tjokorda Putu Kandel was the Royal occupant and builder of what we see today and most likely the last monarch of Ubud. But, the original spot where this palace is today, goes back to the 9^th or 8^th Century. It is difficult to pin down exact dates because little was written down then. History was passed on orally or in dance form. And if there were written records, they were made on palm leaves which over the centuries disintegrated. I had a heck of a time finding any information on the meaning of the word Puri Saren Agung, and what I think it means is the “Palace of the Reflecting Pools”.

A Buda (sic) Garden

Is It a Fruit?

It does not really matter to most what Ubud means, but that is just me, I am curious as to what a name means, why it was given to a spot. Ubud, by the way, seems to mean where the medicine plants grow.  Ah, I know I am crazy… but just look at those pictures…. Ubud is a nice place.

Detailed Stone Work in the Palace Gate

More Stone Carvings

Just note all the incredible details in each building. This Palace is covered in carvings and we had lots of tourists gawking at each door, each mural, and each statue. My mind could not immediately identify the purpose of each pavilion, niche and/or courtyard. The whole of it seems not like a palace but an assortment of verandas, stupas, covered areas and elevated spaces. Extremely impressive doors but the doors led to?  I don’t know! We had no access to what was behind those doors. You see the Royal family still lives here from time to time. The public is only allowed to visit ‘some’ areas just to show the grandeur of the Palace.

Amazing Art Work

And wow, grand it must have been. Despite the many international tourists who stared at it all, it was obvious that when the Palace was fully occupied centuries ago, it must have been a stunning experience to have been there.

The location of the Palace is a prime location in Ubud. The location of each of the old buildings was, so I understand, determined in a kind of Feng-shui experience by priests, shamans or royal explorations or dreams.  

Another Door

In fact, the whole town of Ubud was, according to historical records, a spot that was picked by a dream some old Royal had.  I understand that people believe in these things, omens or feelings determine what they will do, where they will pray, where they will settle or build.

What I did not understand was the use for each of the spots inside the Palace. I think the name ‘Palace’ gave me an idea it was a house. I thought it was a large building with a roof and many rooms. Well this is not Versailles; nothing could be further from it. Yet the people here lived a full, intelligent life. 

Sign for Dance Performances at the Palace

Today this part of the Royal Palace is used for dance performances, Balinese classical music performances or even plays and dances. I have seen performing arts like this before and it is still a bit over my head to read all the hand movements and facial expressions, which all have a deeper meaning.

Carol and I saw a sign for another dance near the Palace and we decided to visit there a few nights later. Wow, did I not understand a thing of what was going on. Read about it in a later blog.

The Royal Palace also serves as a school for budding dancers, young children are taught to dance in the old fashioned way. It is a difficult art to learn and it takes years to perfect. It’s not just the dance; it’s the history that is conveyed through dance, like I said before… A unique accounting of what has been. Here are some samples of dances found on YouTube but the deeper meaning of the history as taught, totally gets lost in the touristy performances.

Palace Pavilion for Dance Performances

There are many video’s to watch about Balinese 

dances, we did not see them on Bali, Carol and I opted to see one of the weekly performances of Kecak, a story from the old Hindu sagas. See our video later in the blog. Kecak is a story, a tale told, not just a dance but a whole opera. It’s a long performance so I can only show you blips later.

Where Royalty Watch the Performances

Royal Chairs From the Back