Sibiu, RO - Still Sibiu

Sibiu, RO - Still Sibiu

We slept in a bit; we did not want to be in the high mountains when it was cold in the morning. On those high passes there might be snow in September, so we had a leisurely breakfast. The sky was dark and threatening too. We waited some but finally, it was time to go. All packed, we said good bye to the great couple who run the Santa Maria. I started my bike and pulled back to give Carol some room. Carol swung her leg over the bike, hit the starter button and…. Nothing!

No, it was not the kill switch that was on. What was it? All was fine when we came to the hotel but now, it looked like the battery was dead. Checked if the head light went on when Carol turned the key, and no, no lights. No sounds, cannot hear the starter motor even trying to turn. Bummer!

OK, let’s start from the beginning. I parked my bike and inspected her bike, and I determined her battery was totally dead. Luckily we had jumper cables, cables of the old type, where one jumps from bike to bike. I took off my saddle to access the battery on my bike, and then I took off Carol’s side plate, part of her cover on the tank until I could finally get to her battery. (Her bike, the 650 GS is a bit of a pain to get to anything). Now, cables are attached and?  Yes, her bike started and I let it run for a bit. But it idled roughly; I kept my bike running as well to make sure current flowed from my bike to her bike. I even revved my engine a bit to bring the RPM higher; I don’t want to drain my battery, too.

After about 5 minutes I think that Carol’s battery has had enough time and I disconnected the jumper cable and immediately her bike stalled. Trying to restart Carol’s bike gives us nothing. Her battery is dead and will not hold a charge. I check her battery fluids as best I can and make sure the plates are covered but it is hard to see. I add some water and wait a bit. OK, we tried the jumper one more time, but again, dead battery. This time her bike will not even start with my battery connected.

Life Is A Bumpy, Narrow Road Sometimes

Today is Sunday, no stores are open. This is Romania. Here they do it the Romanian way. What to do now? We need a new battery, it’s a simple thing and it can happen that your battery dies like that. But, because it’s Sunday we cannot buy a new battery anyplace in Romania.

We take a deep breath, look at each other and shrug our shoulders. Did Stefan Knopf not service the batteries like he should have? But that is not fair, we rode for days and all was well. So, no blame to anybody, it’s just one of those things. We keep it simple, we need a new battery!

First things first, does the hotel have a room for one more night? We marched into their office and hello, all smiles, yes, they have one room available, but not the room we had before. They have a new room and the new room is even better. Lucky for us that worked out the way it did.  So, now what do we do?

This Was An Old Gypsy Camp

We unpacked our gear, moved into the ‘new’ room and?  It was just before lunch, so no reason to do anything but have lunch. Well that was not so easy because we were in a residential area and there was nothing open. It was Sunday.

I walked the streets and find a small cigarette shop open that has also some cookies and such and we pig out on ‘lunch’ like potato chips and Twinkies. Later, for dinner we will just go back to the restaurant we ate at last night. No problem.


So now what? We ask what we could do on a Sunday besides going back to downtown Sibiu. And the nice couple that runs Santa Maria tells us about ASTRA, the biggest historical outdoor museum in Europe. About 30 minutes away by taxi. Great, off we go!  We even make arrangement with the taxi driver to pick us up in three hours’ time exactly where he dropped us off. We do plan ahead.

Homestead In ASTRA  - Cozy 

Homestead With A Sawmill 

Old, But So Nice I Could Live In It Today

Wattle Fences, Reed Roofs, Whatever Nature Provides

It is a wonderful, sunny day and the park is huge. When I say park, it is like a forest with parcels cut out where old, ancient, medieval buildings and setups like farm steads, sawmills, barns, gardens, etc. have been collected. The buildings are originals, collected from all over Romania and reestablished, rebuilt in this ASTRA Park. A great idea and it looks outstandingly ‘old’. Narrow walkways connect one plot to the next and it is like walking through a historic piece of Romania.

Grand Location For ASTRA

The Use Of Water For Power Was A Good Invention

The Concert Stage At ASTRA

Looks Like Don Quixote Was Here 

Rough Art Made From Tree Stumps 

Never Thought Of Using Wooden Slats for Sails 

Safety Railing? What Is That?

This Was the Biggest 'Estate' 

Our bike trouble has been forgotten. We get absorbed in this wonderful place and Carol’s camera is busy taking loads of pictures. The afternoon passes quickly and yes, the taxi was there where and when we had agreed he should be. On the way in to the hotel, I saw an open shop that had sandwiches which would work instead of going to the restaurant again. After the taxi dropped us off and after we refreshed ourselves with some drinks, I walked to get us sandwiches. That was our dinner. All went great today, except the battery.

Had To Inspect How This Works 

I Remember The Inside Of A Flour Mill 

Fences To Keep Wild Animals Out

Well, tomorrow, we’ll have to find a battery. Then we can do the Transfargarasan road. We are just one day late, that’s all.  

Sibiu, RO ( Hermannstadt )

Sibiu, RO (Hermannstadt)

This was the center town of the former German villages; the place of culture and art. Here is where the richest people lived, the most merchandise was sold, bought and exchanged. Even today it is strategically located, almost in the center of Romania. Today, it’s a mix of ethnic groups all called Romanians, even though many are of German origin with family names that give away their Germanic heritage. A case in point is today’s President of Romania, Iohannis. Romania has many ethnic groups, and most of them are still a bit clannish and suspicious of others; their cultural idiosyncrasies almost reminding me of tribal behaviors. Everyone thinks their point of view is the right view. In years past, Romania was ruled by dictatorship, but since the Velvet Revolution, great strides have been made in bringing the whole country in line with European thinking. While Bucharest is the capital and political heart, Sibiu is just across the mountains and to my eyes, seems to be the pulse of the country. 

Before we arrived in Sibiu, we were told by the proprietor of the Pension am Schneiderturm to make a detour and ride past the very small town of Cris (Kreisch). It was so small it was not even on the map. This detour led us to a town that time forgot. Up on a hill was a stone church with a low walls around it but the access was so steep, we did not ride up to it. And walking up the gravel road in riding boots, on a hot day in ATGATT (all the gear all the time) was just out of the question. But it did give me a feeling how it must have been back then, living the Siebenbürger life. The place was small, just 2 streets and only the main street was paved. It was a treat to see this place but it is more of a drive by, than anything else. There was no store, no gas station, nothing that would make you stop and ask. The ride up to Cris was as rural as it could be. The town is a bit hard to find, since it is literally not on the map.Since our way from Sighisoara to Sibiu is not far and we needed to kill time, we took this detour; Cris was a good detour. 

We also stopped in Biertan (Birthälm) just to see the famous fortified Church. This town existed even before the majority of Protestants came to Romania. It used to be a Catholic Church but was then altered from 1490-1524 for Protestant services. Even today, once a month, there is a German Lutheran service here in this church.

Biertan ( Birthälm )

We needed to park our bikes in the market square and as soon as we were parked, a security guy in uniform came and we had to pay for parking. I did not mind, it set my mind at ease that our bikes were being watched. The walk up to the church was steep but at least we had a cobblestone walkway. There was not much to see or do in Biertan, we just walked up to the church tower and received a panoramic view of a town that could have been anyplace in Germany. Only about 2000 people live here now, as most Germans left after WW2. Biertan however, welcomes those old Germans who feel nostalgic and come for a reunion once a year. The crowds have dwindled in the last decade since most of the old people have died off. The young folks do not have an affinity for Romania. Yet, I saw a lot of curious German tourists milling about.

We had to dodge a rain storm and ate a lunch at a gas station while it poured outside.

Good Place To Stay 

So, we finally made it to Sibiu, well, not really. We drove through the outskirts a bit, because our hotel was about 10 minutes away from downtown Sibiu. As a tourist, it is very expensive to stay in a hotel in the center. We found a nice, cozy hotel a bit outside by the name of Casa Santa Maria. And since it was already afternoon we decided to just sit and watch the world go-by. We also just made it under a cloudy sky, rain did not really hit us, and we somehow avoided the big down pours.

However, I did drop my bike in the hotel parking lot. The piece of wood I use for under my side stand was slick and bam, my bike was on its side. With a little help from Carol and the owner we just stood her up, no damage done. Stefan Knopf had installed a new side stand, the old one being ‘broken’. Well this new side stand is too short. Stefan swears there are no other side stands available, so I am riding with this crutch of a side stand helper, a piece of 2x4.

We had dinner at a restaurant that the owner of Santa Maria recommended and the food was good. I would have never thought to check into this Restaurant. I would have walked right past it. It looked like an ordinary house from the outside. The place was well attended and we ate outside, in a court yard. Locals just sat, had beer and chatted. We were in Romania, living the Romanian life.

The next morning, a Saturday, we called a taxi and took it to downtown Sibiu. We were dropped off in front of a very large, very fancy Hotel by the taxi driver and from there we walked through a pedestrian only zone to visit old Sibiu. It was touristy. Even though it was October, it was busy with tourists. The Information Center gave us an idea of sites to visit. Churches, bridges, markets you name it, we headed for it. Life was good.

Liar's Bridge

The Liar’s Bridge was the most interesting. It is said that when you tell it a story and then walk over the bridge, it will either squeak, indicating a you told a lie or it will let you pass quietly. Many marriages are ruined this way when she makes him walk across the bridge after he tells her a story. Young couples for sure walk across the span and she listens very carefully when he tells her ‘I love you”.  (Needless to say, I passed.) When we were there a wedding was going on and the bridge was crowded with the wedding party.

Snack Time!

Does That Not Remind You Of A Flea Market ?

High Fashion In Sibiu

Did Not Know What That Was! Romanian Totem Pole ?

Sweets To Die For!

Romas' Garish Colors 

The bridge is near the market square, and a smaller section of this square was occupied by Gypsies or as they like to be called, Romas. Their assortment of things for sale was a bit different from the normal market stuff. It reminded me of what you will find at an American Flea Market. The Gypsies' dress code was different. Their way of life was ancient and their culture was not what I know. I could not have used anything they had for sale, though. It was just too old and obscure to be useful to me. We ate dinner at an outdoor café near the Main Square and then took a taxi back to our Hotel.

A Roma Family

We were lucky it was a delightful day, the sun shone for us and the nights are beginning to get cooler.

Tomorrow we will be heading for the famous Transfagarasan road that will lead us South over the steep, high mountains. It is a riders ‘dream’ road. Some riders come to Romania just to ride this road. Well we need to rest up, sleep well and be ready for some awesome riding tomorrow. 

Inside The Main Church In Sibiu

Items For Sale That I Don't Need