TAS. 4
Oyster Beds
Carol
and I had a debate…about mussels. Green
VS Blue!
In
NZ we ate Green-Lipped Mussels, and here in TAS they have Blue-Lipped Mussels. Which are better?
Naturally,
we had to try the blue-lipped species, especially since they are 'grown' here.
Carol read about the Freycinet Marine Market and we were off to see how different those blues are from the
greens.
While
we were at the market, chatting with the personnel, a lady told us there was a
tour we could take. The guy giving the tour “wears a
big hat and would be
around in about 10 minutes”. She was not sure if the tour was sold out, but it
would be worthwhile to ask the guy in the big hat if there was an opening. No,
it was not a free tour.
Getting Help From the Guy in the Big Hat |
Sure
enough, 10 minutes later… we got 2 spots on the tour… NOW he was sold out!
It
was a wonderful tour. We were driven in a van, along with some other people, to
a spot on the beach that had a very shallow bottomed ocean access. We had to don
waterproof outfits (hip waders) and walk a few hundred yards into the tidal
flat. The water depth reached about hip high.
All Set to Go Wading in the Oyster Beds |
We were then given lectures on how to raise mussels and oysters. This was a lecture on working a ‘farm’ not a hobby. The equipment, the baskets, the boats and any methods were calculated and methodically applied. From spawning to harvesting, this operation clicks like a well-oiled machine.
Baskets of Growing Oysters |
Each month thousands of dozens are sold at the Store where we just were. They could sell them to the outside world but there was just not enough capacity to supply everybody. They self-limit their market to just TAS and they are busy enough.
Fully Grown - Would You Like One? |
While we were standing hip-deep in the Ocean, our guide pulled some FRESH oysters out of a basket in the water where they were growing, shucked them and had us eat them, right there, as fresh as they can possibly get. It was as good as it can possibly get. Yummy!
Oh Yes Please. Soooo Good |
A lot of research had gone into this location. From tidal flow, to food sources for the oysters, to water temperatures, etc, etc. THIS was the ideal spot for growing oysters. It was a great tour.
Walking Carefully
Carol was all smiles, she was given a harvesting tool to hold but she used it as a support to walk through the squishy, sometimes sandy, sometimes hard pan bottom. You had to kind of feel with your feet how the bottom was before you put your weight down. We all walked carefully, not knowing what lurked in the deep. But we all were smiling; all were in awe of the wonderful way to get food from Mother Nature.
Shucking an Oyster 2.
It was a fantastic trip and our lecture ended with a feast ashore.
We
tasted some more raw oysters that were garnished with red wine vinaigrette and
shallots, with a dash of lime to give it zest. Naturally we had to shuck the
oysters ourselves and were taught how to do that by the large-hated tour guide.
A glass of wine to wash it all down helped us tremendously, too.
Blue Lipped Mussels Are the BEST! |
What
a feast! You have to ask Carol what she
preferred, Green- or Blue-Lipped Mussels…. As for me… either is good! The Blue-Lipped are a bit sweeter I believe.
I
copied some discussions I found on line as to what is better or best. See at
the very end of this report:
About 10 Bins of Various Wool Samples |
After
our delicious, steamed mussel lunch, we were now off again. Our next stop was the town
of Ross. (No, it’s not Ross' town, it’s just Ross).
Ross Uniting Church |
Beautiful Stained Glass |
Ross
seemed stately; cozy, well-run, organized, supervised and neat and clean. The
modern world did not pass it by, yet I felt a bit like in the olden days when I
walked through town.
While it has the tourist shops, they did not scream at me.
Carol took some photos of the church; we then walked down to what’s left of the Women’s Factory.
Australia sure was a dumping ground of prisoners for the
British Empire. Everywhere I go here, there is an old prison building with
explanations on how things used to be. Well, I am glad I did not experience
those days, those days of being incarcerated by the ruling Government. It was
not an easy life… and women especially had it hard being in jail. No matter the
nice name of 'factory' it was a prison, it was a jail, and it was another word
for slavery.
Wood Beamed Ceilings in the Church |
Carol took some photos of the church; we then walked down to what’s left of the Women’s Factory.
900 Bonnets, Sewn by Australian Women, to Remember the Women Here |
So Sad |
The Ross Female Factory was another sadistic place
that used and abused the common folk. What was a woman to do, some had babies to
take care of? Life for solo women with child or otherwise, in the middle of the
19th Century, was not an easy way to live. The tales told were
horrendous. While I read most of the reports now stapled to the walls as a
documented account of what happened then, I can also use my imagination and
read between the lines. This place was not a happy place. Only the gate house
is still standing, the rest it is left to the imagination. But I
bet you it was not a good place to be a woman at that time and in this place
especially.
I
give Australia credit for showing the way her first 'settlers' were treated when
they were forced to come and immigrate into Australia, albeit as convicts.
Lots
of lives were sad lives at that time. How lucky we are in today’s day
and
age, despite the news reports in the U.S. telling how Immigrants are
treated. Compared to the way it was, today’s people are respected in
much, much better
ways.
After
Ross we had to now find a hotel for the night and we are near the historic town
of Richmond. There should be a motel, hotel nearby, don’t you think?
On
the way out of the town of Ross we crossed over the historical bridge the town is
so proud of. We made it a point to get a better point of view than to just blip
over it when we drove past. Yes, it’s a nice bridge but as far as bridges
go…it’s another bridge! Okay… it’s
historic, which in Australia means about 150 years old.
Back
to us trying to find a hotel for the night; we got to Richmond and I didn't see that many hotels at all. Smack
in the middle of town was an ‘old’ hotel and we stopped in and got a reasonable
price but… Carol went up to look at the room and when she came back she just
shook her head. I knew already… not for us. She later told me in the car, the
room was so small, you had to walk in backwards to get your ass into bed. No
A/C, bathroom down the hall, at the front of the building with noise from the busy
highway… just a NOT for us kind of place.
But
where do we go now? We saw a place that
had a sign in the window… for rent, call us. We called, it rang… and rang… and
rang… then someone picked up and the price was astronomical… no thank you… but
where DO we go?
Another
sign in the window, another phone call and can we wait for an hour or two so
that they can get to us with the key?
Price was high, a bit out of town but what else can we do?
I asked our GPS if there was a Caravan Park
nearby and yes, there was… we followed the directions and while it was out of town
a bit, it’s our own place for the night. A 2 room ‘cabin’, Cabin # 63, with a
bedroom, a living room and a bath. 2 chairs outside on the veranda and we could
watch the world go by.
Luckily
we found a decent place. Not cheap mind you, it’s not cheap in Australia… we
paid for a cabin without breakfast $135 U.S. Worse to come but we don’t know that
yet.
We
lived in innocence and bliss, going for dinner that night in the old hotel where
we did not rent a room because it was the only place open. Food was mediocre
too so I guess it still was best not to sleep there.
Tomorrow
we will drive back to Hobart, at least it’s a big city and as you know, I like
big cities.
Good night!
Discussions
as to what is a better Mussel:
Green
Lipped: I've had them fresh in New
Zealand and frozen in various places around the planet. Fresh they are quite good;
they tend to be on the large size but are sweet in flavour. Frozen, they tend
to end up tough and fishy in most cases.
As
for blues mussels, the Atlantic species Mytilus edulis is excellent; they are best plump
and sweet. The closely related M. galloprovincialis is also good, but can be bitter
(maybe more to do with location - Med. sea and Australia then species). Horse
Mussels (Modiolus
modiolus) are much
larger and tend to be tough but a good wrapped in bacon and grilled.
At
the end of the day freshness is more important than species I think. I wouldn't
choose to eat frozen mussels if they are a main ingredient. Also, location
seems to make a big difference in flavour.
Report
of a Grower:
The
"New Zealand Green Shelled Mussels" are very delicious if available
fresh, but when we began developing them for export initially to Japan we had
problems.
This
type of Mussel keeps it shell open while alive, very different than the
European, American or Asian species that always have tightly closed shells.
In
fact, it’s always assumed at most Restaurants and Fish Mongers that any open
Mussel should always be discarded as they are thought to be dead or spoiled.
It
seemed almost impossible to convince retailers and end users as well as
importers about this characteristic so we decided to try several ways of
merchandising the Mussels.
We
began Nitrogen freezing of the Mussels on the 1/2 shell, removing the tops and
packing them in 1 dozen in a translucent plastic tray with the bottom opaque
and the top clear. In this manner they became very popular in Japan, accepted
immediately by the Sushi Restaurants as an exciting new item. They still
continue to be popular, retailed at most Supermarkets and Fish Mongers in
Japan.
We
tried this first in Honolulu where again the Sushi Restaurants led the way,
followed by retailers. Many Restaurants began serving them in Cioppino Type
dishes, or baked and different versions.
When
we introduced them to the States it was in the 1/2 Shell Package and IQF Frozen
for Institutional use, this eventually was also done in sizes suitable for
re-packing at most Asian grocers. They are now also packed in all types of
retail, boxed, clear bagged, or whatever the importers request.
In
all their various guises if kept at recommended temperatures they are superior
to almost every type of Mussels being consistent all year-round. Regular
Mussels vary according to seasons, water temperatures or weather while the
imported Mussels are supervised, inspected for quality, color and production by
the New Zealand officials.
I
enjoy them when used in Seafood Curry, or simply prepared with a Scampi recipe
used in place of the Shellfish it's more economical and much enhanced with the
Garlic, Wine, Butter, and Leaf Parsley with some Parmesan added.
I
also should mention the "Nitrogen Freezing Process" is the same one
used in about 90% of the Tuna used for Maguro, or Toro served everywhere with
few exceptions. It has very little effect if any toward the fresh taste comparisons.