4. First Impressions of Siem Reap
We had a great,
late breakfast. The breakfasts were extensive enough. Any kind of Western egg
breakfast you can think of was available, plus pancakes. Additionally, a nice
selection of Cambodian breakfasts, which were mostly rice and noodle based, was
offered. The portions were not huge but adequate. Coffee, tea, 2 different
juices, milk, an assortment of fresh fruits, cereal, croissants, butter and
jams were all available on a self-serve basis. They even went to the market to purchase fruits we wanted to try. So we had mango, papaya, jack fruit and salak at various times. If you left the table hungry it
was your fault.
Every time I go
someplace new, I explore the area around me on foot.
I try to
memorize where we are in relation to some land marks I see.
I do not take
any transportation for that, it helps me to orient myself if I walk, it’s a slow
walk, just wandering around, gawking at stuff.
Our plan for
the month was to have a good breakfast at the Hotel, have a small lunch of crackers
and cheese and fruit; and then find dinner someplace around 6 PM.
Well, our Hotel
was a bit off the beaten track, we would need to take a tuk-tuk to visit a supermarket
to pick up groceries for our lunches. We looked at each other and decided lets
walk to find the supermarket the Hotel Concierge Ana, told us about.
So we started
to walk on this second day. Naturally, people looked at us funny; Westerners
don’t walk much in Cambodia. Everybody takes a tuk-tuk. And we found out
quickly why walking is not a good idea, at least not on the outskirts of Siem
Reap. The maintenance of roads and sidewalks, if they exist, is not a Cambodian
priority. Super clean it was not. Cambodia has lots of free roaming dogs who
defecate wherever; you need to dance around it. Plastic trash is strewn about on a side street near our hotel.
Even in the town center the sidewalks are uneven and you need to be aware of
each step you take. There might be things in the way; permanently or temporarily,
like
when someone dumps water on the sidewalk. The Public Sanitation Department
needs to be on the agenda of the next Town Hall Meeting in Siem Reap, but I
doubt this will happen. Stuff like Hygiene, Public Safety, Environmental
responsibilities seems unimportant in a 3rd world country.
Mopping the Sidewalk In Front of a Bar |
The necessity
to take a tuk-tuk occurred to me quickly; I hailed the tuk-tuk like you hail a
taxi in NYC. Just wave and someone will stop and take you to wherever you need
to go. The trip costs us $2 U.S. to ride to the ‘Lucky Mall’ Supermarket.
Back to the
Supermarket: “Lucky Supermarket” is a smallish
version of a typical U.S. supermarket offering food for Westerners. Stuff like
Pringles, cheddar cheese, assorted crackers, fancy nuts, soda pop and beer etc is
available. There is also Cambodian food available.
Cambodians buy
at the ‘Old Market’ but I will write about that tomorrow.
We did our food
shopping for a few lunches and took the tuk-tuk back to the hotel.
Now, you just
don’t step into a tuk-tuk and tell the driver where to go; All ‘negotiations’
are done BEFORE you sit down inside the tuk-tuk. These negotiations can be
lively, but for the short trip (5 minutes back to the Hotel) the prices are
almost fixed.
Our return tuk-tuk
driver did not speak English; we had a map with us, given to us by the hotel as
well as the Hotel business card. I showed the man where we had to go using
both, the map and the business card. We agreed to the fare of $1.50 and sat
down, holding our purchases from the supermarket in our laps.
I thought the tuk-tuk
driver knew where he had to go, he went back the way we came and I started to
relax but then he made a left into a main road I did not remember. After 3
minutes I alerted the driver and pantomimed he is on the wrong road. Now what?
I could tell he
was lost, too. He did not know our Hotel which was off the beaten track. So, as
best I could, from memory, I guided the guy back the way we came. It was not
that easy but we made it back to the Hotel alright. We rode that tuk-tuk for 20
minutes with all the detours we had to make. All that time spent finding our
hotel for just $1.50.
I felt a bit
sorry for this fellow, but what else could I have done?
I gave him $2
for the fare and he was very happy.
I told you I
was magnanimous.