Through my eyes

living my life without regrets

Tuesday, April 07, 2020

Cambodia 2020 - 31. Preah Khan Temple - Part 1.


31. Preah Khan Temple - Part 1.

This is our final temple visit.  We used only 6 out of the 7 days we had but we are satisfied with our choice. There is too much so see on just one trip. And spreading Angkor’s ruins over a few visits was the best thing to do for us.
Preah Khan Is North of Angkor Thom and Also Surrounded by a Moat

is the brother temple to Ta Prohm. Both palaces, temples were built around the same time. Preah Khan was built by Jayavarman VII in honor of his father: Dharaindravarman.

The Moat (Not Shown) Would be Outside the Boundaries of This Picture.
We Entered Through the West Gate But the Main Entrance Is Through the East Gate.

There is a reference to a ‘Lake of Blood’ which could mean that the Khmer won a battle against the Chams (Vietnam, Thailand) and killed the Chams’ King on the battle field. The Khmer picked this killing field to erect the temple Preah Khan on it. Good Omens according to the Khmer.  
Park Worker Cleaning the Streets

We know a lot about this temple because steles were found on site and give us considerable amounts of info:

This temple had 12,500 people living in or very near to it.
18 high priests were in charge and held daily or weekly rituals.
Over 1000 teachers taught at the Buddhist University then.
615 dancers were housed and performed for the rituals.
There was a list of how much gold, silver, how many pearls and how much silk were held for safekeeping at the temple. It was a very rich place.
Clearing the Pathway Up to the Causeway Over the Moat
Boundary Stones Line the Pathway

The larger area around this temple held 80,000 ‘common’ folk that supported and supplied this temple.

Even though Preah Khan was dedicated to the King’s father and was built to celebrate Compassion (Bodhisattva) showing the Lord Lokesvara but carved with the face of the King’s father, there were a total of 430 secondary deities and shrines throughout this city at the time. 
Lion-Headed Figure On Boundary Stone
The dedication and grand opening of this temple was in AD 1191.

So it was a large ‘city’ for its time. It had its own water (baray) reservoir.
Buddha Removed From Boundary Stone

The total temple was built on 56 hectares (<140 acres), surrounded by a wide moat.

The innermost courtyard is so packed with shrines, stupas, etc. that it is difficult to walk through. Especially now that ruins are littered about.
Our Frangipani Tuk-Tuk

We entered these ruins from the West; Mr. Touch had decorated his tuk-tuk with Frangipani Flowers so Carol felt happy to ride in a flowered transport. She needed this happiness because it was a very difficult temple to walk through.
Most of the Dvarapala (Demons) Holding the Naga's Tail On the Bridge Have Lost Their Heads
Very Rough, Uneven Surface

Asura (God) On the Other Side of the Bridge Over the Moat

Outer-Most Gopura (Gate)
The approach to the actual temple is a hike, walking again over old stones, full of unevenness and holes, sidelined with carved boundary markers that flanked this walk. The mostly dried up moat is still crossed by a bridge-like structure where large gods are on one side and the other side is aligned with equally large dvarapala (demons). On each side of this bridge these protectors of the temple hold a Naga, the multi headed snake, as a kind of railing. The approach is impressive, suspenseful and awe-inspiring.

View From the Gate - Still a Long Walk to the Temple
Past these guardians is a very large gopura, a gate that leads to the first courtyard. Additional guardian figures are in front of this gate and immediately behind the portal, once you have entered this courtyard.
By now you wish you could find a bench to sit down, but these ruins are merciless.
Depiction of the Battle of Lanka Over the 3rd Gate

Doors
The walk for now is always toward the center of the temple, the Sanctuary of this temple, and you have to pass through many doors. Each door has the raised doorstep to keep out evil spirits, so you need to climb over them. Each doorway is elaborately carved, each door jamb post, each lintel is profusely ornate.
Small Shrine






On the sides of this center walk, once you pass the gallery that surrounds the 2nd courtyard there are multiple shrines, altars, or niches. Some are rubble-filled, some you can access. 
The Sacred Sword Stupa

We chose to stick with the central walk, leading into the center sanctuary where a stupa marks the spot. This stupa is known as the ‘Sacred Sword’ of the Khmer empire. The lights from holes near the ceiling make this stupa look like a burning candle.
Holes in the Ceiling Make It Look Like a Candle






Holding the 'Flame' In Our Hands



We took lots of pictures here.