Through my eyes

living my life without regrets

Friday, April 03, 2015

22. Singapore - The Republic of Singapore -

Singapore

Amazing Architecture
My first impression of this country (the Republic of Singapore) is a good one. Wow, so clean it makes NYC look dirty. So organized it makes London look sloppy. Things work here. The subway is clean, efficient and runs like clockwork. Shiploads of tourists are dealt with without breaking a sweat. People seem happy and content with their lot in life. But, Singapore is a Republic, not a democracy. The law rules here. Singapore has strict laws and they are strictly enforced. No porn is allowed in any form. The Internet is censored in many more ways. Newspapers and TV are censored. Fireworks are forbidden. The political leadership is very conservative. Personal liberties are curtailed to make for more harmonious living conditions. The law reaches so far as to forbid spitting, chewing gum or smoking in most places. Don't even think of dropping a cigarette butt on the ground. The fines are steep, 1,000 dollar fine for spitting out a glob of chewing gum? Even corporal punishment is not unheard of. It is not that this is a police state; I did not see any police at all in the three days that I was here. Yet when caught, there is no mercy for you no matter who you are. I did not walk around in fear of anything but felt pleasantly safe day and night. One needs to be aware of the laws, however.
More Modern Architecture

Carol and I opted to use the hop-on, hop-off bus and bought a two-day ticket right at the marine terminal where we docked since we were to be in Singapore for three days. This terminal is a very modern, clean place filled with shops that sell almost anything. When you come off the ship you must go through customs. You could shop right at this marine terminal, turn around and board the ship again. Literally, all you ever wanted is for sale right there.  

Naturally we did not do that but took a taxi to the first stop of the hop on/off bus near Chinatown. It rained buckets when we were in the cab. I noticed pedestrian traffic did not subside. Most buildings have overhangs so these covered walkways keep you dry in rain and shaded on hot days. This is a very convenient idea. I wish NYC or any metropolitan city had this set up. It would keep a lot of people clean and dry.

Singapore is well thought out. Singapore proper is an island. There are 50 other, smaller islands belonging to Singapore, but the main business occurs on the main island. Most of the smaller islands are very small and not useful, have no harbor facilities and serve mainly as storage areas for industry or, when pretty, as weekend get always. I visited the large island only.

Marina Bay Sands Hotel
Marina Bay Sands Hotel Lit Up at Night









We visited the 57th floor of the “Marina Bay Sands Hotel.” This is the newest icon representing Singapore. Three large tower buildings, side by side, with a ship-like super structure across all three buildings at the top.  At one end, the bow of the “ship” protrudes, telelevers way out from the tower. This hanging over area is accessible to visitors and gives a unique vista. A “No-edge” swimming pool (Infinity Pool) was created for the very daring

Infinity Pool Inside the Marina Bay Sands Hotel

atop the roof. One has to be a hotel guest to visit the pool but Carol snuck in to take a picture. A bit scary to swim in the pool I think when the water's edge literally disappears over the horizon. We enjoyed a cappuccino in the coffee shop on top of this daring architectural marvel and watched others swim in the pool. This tower, this hotel is an impressive structure. No wonder the Marina Sands Hotel became synonymous with Singapore, the building that spells Singapore like the Eiffel Tower spells Paris.

Looking Down on the Lobby of the
Marina Bay Sands Hotel


View From the Top of the Marina Bay Sands Hotel








 

There are a multitude of interesting places to visit when visiting Singapore. We choose to go back in time and visited the Raffles hotel next. This is the
Raffles Hotel

home of the famous drink, the “Singapore Sling” first served in 1915. It was and is now, served in the Long Bar, a place that recalls old times, colonial times. The hotel is extremely expensive, yet an icon of Singapore too. The hotel has a dress code, sandals and halter tops are a no-no. Men need dress shirts, even a necktie for afternoon tea or dinner. The dress code for the Long Bar however, was a bit more relaxed. The tourists are needed to bring in the money and concessions need to be
Doorman at the Raffles Hotel
made when it comes to what to wear. To save on our expenses at the bar I only ordered only one Sling. Good thing I did. Carol liked the drink, for me it was really yucky tasting. The bar had free roasted peanuts in the shells; you peel the shells and just throw them on the tile floor. It creates a mess but the procedure is based on history. I liked making a mess. We mainly went to Raffles because of the Sling.

Singapore Sling, Roasted Peanuts and Beer
The Long Bar at the Raffles Hotel


 






Lush Gardens at the Raffles Hotel






Singapore seems to have districts for the majority of their races. Chinese live in or near Chinatown. There is a section called little India and it looks, feels and smells
Hindu Temple in Little India
like India when one visits there. Mostly Indian people live near or in little India. This is literally India, including the temples, shops, clothing and foods. There is a Malay section of Singapore as well; and an Arab section with some mosques and souks.

Ganesh in Little India




Images in Little India








 
 
Singapore is running out of land however. Every inch is built upon.  Only 1% of the land is agrarian and even that is dwindling. Land has been reclaimed from the sea already, yet still there is not enough room.

 The Gross National Income is about $US 42,000/year. Their major industries are electronics, shipbuilding and finance. For workers there is no unemployment insurance. Housing is subsidized, there are no slums. Close to 6 million people live in Singapore, of which 60% are Chinese and 20% from India.

Upper Level of Hindu Temple
 

On day two we visited little India and walked around a bit. Everyone was busy; people were preoccupied with their lives. Indian dialects were spoken but everyone also spoke English. The same was true with Chinatown, our other stop on day two. Stalls, small shops, large department stores were offering their wares. The places were humming with activity. People shopped, ate and looked prosperous. We looked
Chinatown in Singapore
at the darkening sky at one point and just caught a taxi again before it stared to rain slightly, then heavier.

On day three we did not even leave the ship. When we woke up, the rain was coming down side ways. It poured. While the walkways in town are covered we did not feel like ducking the rain when crossing street intersections. We looked at other options for this rainy day, like a cable car ride that crosses the city, but decided not to go.

Chinatown in Singapore
We just got an inkling of Singapore on this short visit but our impression was a very good one. The taxi driver maybe said it best when he said: “I don't mind giving up some liberties for comfortable and peaceful living conditions.”

There are many ways to live; the American way is not the only way. 

Getting Ready for Chinese New Year






Celebrating Chinese New Year at Raffles Hotel
 
 

 
 

Supplies for Celebrating
Chinese New Year

 
 
 







Singapore Skyline at Night


Hopefully Clearing Tomorrow













 

21. Penang, Malaysia

Penang, Malaysia

“The Pearl of the Orient “was the name given to Penang, an island just off the
Coming Into the Penang Habour
Peninsula of Malaysia with a good harbor for large vessels. We booked a tour around the island to give us an idea why this spot was so popular in colonial days. The main town, Georgetown, has a UNESCO city center and it is impressive. Many elaborate colonial homes, in the European or Chinese style, are still in use today. If it were not for the cars and scooters, one could make believe this was the year 1850 to 1898. Even on the outskirts of the downtown area, large mansions with large properties are kept in good repair, the whole of it oozing old style wealth. There were polo grounds, race tracks, golf clubs, tennis courts, prestigious schools, houses of worship, parks, arboretums, and everywhere signs of opulence and wealth abound. Definitely this was and still is an island of the rich. Old style mansions and office buildings are now used as government buildings. The area was well-to-do, no doubt about it.


Kapitan Chung Keng Kwee
The money came from the sale of spices, rubber, tin, rice and opium. Opium was a large part of the trade then. It commanded nice profits and made the dealers rich. In colonial days it was a legal, respectable business. Almost all business in colonial days was done by the Europeans using Chinese business connections. The Chinese connections only helped the British in Georgetown. Even today, Penang is almost 60% Chinese, 32% are Malay and only 7% are of Indian descent. The one percent left are the Europeans. Business in colonial days was done with the help of the Chinese Kapitans who were leaders of clans that commanded the larger Chinese community. Those Kapitans were the kingpins behind most trades in Asia at the time. Secret societies were formed by those Kapitans and all business flowed through their hands. Their wealth was legendary, their mansions and business offices, opulent.

Pinang Peranakan Mansion


We visited the restored house of one of those men, the house of the Kaptain Chung Keng Kwee. His house, the Pinang Peranakan Mansion, today holds over 1000 antiques and is a museum right in downtown Georgetown. There are other such houses such as the Cheong Fatt Tze mansion which received a UNESCO award in 2000. Another is the Khoo Kongsi. Chinese societies were plentiful and made lots of
Pinang Peranakan Mansion Dining Room
money. British businessmen had no problems with the Chinese workers or even the Malay or Indian worker. All the dirty work, all the labor issues, all the punitive actions were handled by those Kapitans, those Baba-Nyongas. The British dealt exclusively with their Kapitans. Finding the right secret society among the Chinese was the key to a successful British business. The clubs, golf, polo, tennis, etc were very helpful in making contacts. Deals were struck at those and other places.
Pinang Peranakan Mansion
Naturally there was some infighting among the Chinese clans to secure British contacts, but that is another story. For me to see the display of colonial wealth, the greed and business acumen of years gone by, was mind blowing. I liked this part of our tour. I was intrigued by the concept and wonder if those practices of doing business in Asia have really been abandoned today. Why do I say Asia? Societies like these could still exist for some businesses and could even be
Pinang Peranakan Mansion
applied world wide. I think I am still very naive. Or I can not think in those terms well enough, especially with today's internet connections so freely available.

She Spoke No English But Was Happy
To Show Me Around
 







Beautiful Stained Glass Windows
Pinang Peranakan Mansion


Another Antique at the Pinang Peranakan Mansion







Pinang Peranakan Mansion





Outside Statuary so Some Weather Damage Evident at
Pinang Peranakan Mansion





More Antiques









Kek Lok Si Temple

The Kek Lok Si Temple was our next stop and 150 steep stairs led up to the complex. I huffed and puffed in the 34 C heat. So did Carol. I am not used to running up stairs, especially in humidity and blasting sunshine. This temple is situated on the side of a mountain with a wonderful view of Georgetown. The stupa, a 100 foot building, was built with funds from China, Malaysia and India. It represents the main ethnic groups now residing in Georgetown and their religious heritages.
Kek Lok Si Temple
Kek Lok Si Temple









Kek Lok Si Temple






Turtle Pond at Kek Lok Si Temple
Again, most Buddhas were painted gold and again there were hundreds of them in all kinds of poses, standing, sitting, sleeping and so on. This temple is one of the largest in South Asia and very colorful and extensive. The surrounding gardens are tranquil and hold a large turtle pond and some shrines. We had to climb down those stairs again to get back to the bus. Groan!
 
Golden Sands Resort


All this walking and climbing made me hungry. So luckily it was time for our buffet luncheon at the Golden Sands Resort along with other passengers on excursions today. This modern and impressive place was perfect for us; we ate the delicious food in a large dining room with a view of the beach. Driving up to the northern part of this island where all the hotels and new, expensive buildings are, made me realize that this part of Penang is the tourist area today.
Golden Sands Resort
Beautiful hidden beaches, hotels at the water’s edge, the latest designer looks from around the world, make this an international destination. Here among the newest posh, the latest fashion is the new Penang. Proximity to Kuala Lumpur via a new bridge makes Penang a great get-away today, a get-away from urbanization and a retreat into history. The drive to Kuala Lumpur is about 90 minutes without traffic, if such a thing exists in crowded Penang. Still people travel like this, even work in KL and live in Penang.

Butterfly Farm


Then off again to a butterfly farm. Thousands of flopping, winged creatures amid flowering bushes and trees greeted us. So active was this place with all the butterflies feeding all at once that it felt almost like frenzy. None of the insects would hold still for a good photo. All were busy fluttering about, searching for food. I am not an entomologist so I can not write much about the butterflies. For the right person this place however could be a 
Walking Stick Insect at the Butterfly Farm
goldmine in their search for the right species. The museum attached has a huge display of pinned butterflies in groups and assorted sizes and colors.

Butterfly Farm










Beautiful Gardens



The final stop on the way back to the ship was a “fruit” stand. Its specialty was  Nutmeg oil. We were given a small demonstration of the use of this oil for our health. Yet the smell alone would not be acceptable to most European or American noses. Even other oils, like clove oil or camphor did little to entice anybody to buy.

Durian
  
Durians were for sale, too. This fruit is an acquired taste. I tried a small piece of the durian and could not manage to like it. It is sweet but also stinks like rotten cheese. The saying here is that the sweet taste is like heaven and the stink of the fruit is like hell. To my taste it tasted like Limburger Cheese with a slight sweet flavor. Yuck!


I guess I like history, the Chinese Kaptain’s house was my best experience for the day.
Hey Buddy, Nice Tie
Penang is so large and so diverse; it would take serious study to understand all of Penang.

20. Phuket, Thailand, Asia

Phuket, Thailand

This was a short visit; we only docked in Phuket at noon and had to be back on board by 5.30 PM. Nevertheless we had an excursion booked through the Cruise Line so we had no worries about missing the ship in case something delayed us in our land travels. The possibility is always there that a car breaks down or something else will delay us and if that happens and you are not on an Oceania sanctioned excursion, you are on your own. The ship will leave without you. It is then up to you to get to the next port to rejoin the ship again. How you do it is up to you. So taking non-Oceanic outings is always a bit of a gamble.

Ganesha, Hindu god with Head of an Elephant, Body of a Man 
god of Wisdom, Knowledge and New Beginnings
The main reason for a Phuket excursion was the promise of an elephant ride. Sure enough, our first stop on the tour was a camp with trained Asian elephants. Our beast of burden was a 20 year old female elephant that was cared for by a young (33 years old) mahout. A father of 2 children, he makes a living directing, feeding, washing and totally taking care of the elephant. No, the elephant does not belong to him; he is just the care taker, the mahout. The elephant listens to him only and his only tools to direct this huge animal seem to be his feet.
Picture of a Picture
This mahout sits right on top of the elephant’s head and rubs or kicks his feet behind the elephant’s ears. Amazing to watch how this large animal listens to her mahout.

Riding High
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Our Path Through the Bush

Climbing onto the Elephant's Back from a Platform
 
 
 
 
 
 



We had to climb a platform and from there, step onto the elephant’s neck and then sit down on a bench that was fastened to the beast’s back with just ropes. Nothing seemed to bother the animal; it just stood there and let us climb all over her back. Once she started moving, her gate was slow and we swayed from side to side but felt secure. We were about 4 meters above the ground and could see well from our perch while we moved through the bushes. The young man, our guide, was entertaining. His English was basic but good enough. For his work with the elephants he gets paid 300 baht per week (U.S.) $100. - From the owner of the elephant. Plus he receives tips from the tourists. His family, wife, 2 young children and in-laws, need about 50 baht/ day to eat. He just ekes out a living yet he was all smiles and happy.

Our trip through the bush lasted approximately 30 minutes and was a memorable event. I am glad we took this ride.

Ox Cart Ride Not Available as we Ran Out of Time
The next stop after the elephant ride was a demonstration and talk on the collection of natural rubber from the rubber trees. The history of natural rubber is a long one. Originally found only in the jungles of the Amazon and once a main source of income for Brazil, seeds of the rubber tree were smuggled out of Brazil and then planted in other tropical areas around the world. The demand for rubber exploded after Henry Ford started mass-producing cars and each car needed hoses and 5 tires. Rubber was a huge business and made a lot of people very, very rich. Rubber tree farms were planted far and wide; everybody wanted a share of this new business. “Rubber barons” was a term used to name the people who had rubber tree plantations. World War 1 and 2 needed loads of rubber for all kinds of applications.

Scored Bark of the Rubber Tree
Then synthetic rubber was invented. The synthetic rubber was made from oil, like it still is today. It was not invented all at once but developed between the years of 1879 to 1940. It took some time to perfect today's different rubbers. The natural rubber business dwindled. Latex gloves, certain straps, other products that need natural rubber do not provide as much business as synthetic rubber does today. There are still rubber barons today, those who still grow and harvest natural rubber. But they are fewer in numbers than in the 19th and 20th centuries. Rubber trees are susceptible to blight and there is a real danger that this blight may wipe out most of the trees on the globe. To plant trees in various locations is actually good business practice. 
Collection of the White Liquid Rubber
The methods those early rubber pioneers developed are still used however. The bark of the rubber tree is scored with a special knife and the whitish juice from the tree is collected in a cup attached below the cut. The scoring cuts are made in the early hours of the day (before dawn) and the tree juice (rubber) takes two hours to drip slowly into the collection cups. After breakfast, the cups are collected and processed. With the addition of some water and formic acids, the collected rubber is dissolved and then processed to 
Rubber Mats Hanging Up to Dry
form usable rubber matts. Nothing has really changed from the processes used years ago. Natural rubber has unique properties that synthetic rubber can not copy. But today, most “rubber” used is the synthetic kind.







Part of Chalong Buddhist Temple
Our next tour stop was the Chalong Buddhist temple, a compound of buildings and very tourist oriented. Small shops within the buildings sold all kinds of paraphernalia and useless plastic memorabilia including key chains, prayer beads, plastic flowers, etc. Even fire crackers were for sale and some believers lit them to celebrate the granting of their prayers. The noise was tremendous.

 
The Main Temple

All the statues of Buddha were painted a golden color. The place was packed with sitting, standing, sleeping, smiling statues of Buddhas in very ornate and colorful settings. I still think this kind of Buddhism is a mix of Hinduism and Buddhism combined. The Indian/Chinese mix is so obvious.




Many Lying, Sitting and Standing Buddhas


More Gold Painted Buddhas










All the Gold Leaf is Peeling Off
Buddha's Statue



Removing Shoes is a Required
Ritual Before Entering the Temple







Dragon Motifs Everywhere
 


 
 
 

More Dragons
 

 
 
 
 
 
  
 
Cashew Nut is Inside the Fruit of the Cashew Tree
(Artificially Attached to the Tree to Demonstrate)
After many photos taken at the temple, we were driven to a cashew nut factory.
The process of getting to the edible part of the nut is quite labor intensive. No wonder those nuts cost so much in the stores. After picking the ripe produce from the trees, the husks have to be boiled in water to extract the center shell. Those shells have to be cracked and then the nut has to be poked out of the shell, after which the nut still has to be peeled and then roasted. 
Cracking the Fruit Open with a Press
Peeling Each Nut By Hand









 


It is a lengthy process with many hands needed to make this product marketable. Of course I bought some of those delectable nuts, plain, salted and roasted in honey too. Yum!

The final stop, the jewelry factory, could have been dropped from the tour if it were up to me. I don't see the need for diamonds, jades or whatever other stone is made into rings, necklaces, etc.  Gold or silver, what grade of purity, what shine, what color, what cut is of no interest to me whatsoever. I can appreciate the artful workmanship but that is about it.

We returned to the ship by 5 PM, just in time to watch the deck hands release the cables from the moorings.
Leaving Phuket, Thailand
 
 The elephant ride was the best part on this tour. I would have liked to get to know the animal a little better, not just climb on her back. Feed her a banana or somehow say hello, not just use her like a car. She was a sweet lady, gentle and strong. I wanted her to know I appreciated her conveyance. But I liked the ride, slow and powerful and gentle.